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I am not sure, But there could be six more bolts to remove. They will be on the side of the pan, about half way up. three on each side. Sorry for guessing, I work on to many makes and models. Also the gaskets do hold the pan on tight sometimes. If there are no extra bolts then carefully pry it off.
Did you remove the catalytic converter, and motor mount? Lots of stuff has to come off to get this pan out. :o(
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cableThrottle body air inlet ductEngine mount strutsAccessory drive belt
Install an engine support fixture.
Catalytic converter from the right exhaust manifoldRight front wheelRight side splash shieldOil filter and discardA/C compressor bracket and reposition the compressorPower steering oil cooler pipe brackets from the frameEngine mount bracket boltsLower engine mount nutsTorque converter coverOil level sensor electrical connectorOil level sensor
Raise the vehicle and place a support under the frame.
Right side frame bolts and loosen the left side boltsEngine mount and bracketOil pan
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine oil.
Remove the oil dipstick.
If necessary remove the exhaust pipe crossover.
If equipped with automatic transmission, remove the converter housing pan and the transmission oil cooler line retainer from the bracket.
On 1996-98 models, remove the oil filter and if equipped, the oil filter adapter.
If necessary, remove the starter brace and bolt and swing the starter aside.
Remove the strut rods, if equipped.
Remove the oil pan and discard the gaskets.
Apply a suitable sealant such as GM part number 12346192 or its equivalent to the front cover-to-block joint and to the rear crankshaft seal-to-block joint. Apply the sealant about 1 inch (25mm) in both directions from each of the four corners.
Clean all gasket surfaces and use new gaskets to assemble.
Install new gasket and seals.
Install the oil pan.
On 1988-95 models, tighten the pan bolts to 100 inch lbs. (11 Nm). Tighten the pan nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
On 1996-98 models, tighten the oil pan nuts and bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Install the strut rods, if equipped.
If removed, install starter, starter brace and bolt.
If equipped, install the oil filter adapter.
If removed, install the oil filter.
If equipped with automatic transmission, install the converter housing pan and the transmission oil cooler line retainer to the bracket.
oil filter screws onto an adapter housing which also has the pressure sending unit on it (above oil filter). This adapter housing bolts to the block with 3 bolts. if oil appears to be leaking from where the adapter housing meets the block (especially at the rear side of engine near bottom), then you need to replace the siamese o-rings between the adapter housing and the block ($12 part at dealer). remove lowest 12mm bolt and loosen top 2 12 mm bolts(top 2 bolts won't come out unless you drop the engine down, but loosening 1 inch is all you need), replace o-rings and retighten bolts. be careful not to get dirt/grit between block and adapter. just finished doing this to son's 95 2.7 v6 which was leaving an 8" puddle of oil after idling for only 1 minute-worked perfect
The lines can be disconnected from both ends and the bracket removed but to remove the lines from the front (they cannot be removed to the rear) loosen and remove the drivers side engine mount bolt. Use a block of wood between a floor jack and the cast aluminum oil pan and jack the engine assy. up slightly (just enough to "snake" the oil filter adapter lines by the drivers side engine mount. Leave engine jacked up slightly while you "snake" the new lines into position and install the end at the engine oil filter adapter. You can then lower the engine reinstall engine mount bolt and finish the install of the lines by installing the oil filter end of the adapter lines and attach the bracket (that comes with the GM lines) to the block.