In th short term I stopped the repair until I can get more info on the mirror assembly. It appears their are several types available. Since my car was manufactured in Japan the assembly supposedly is different from the U.S production. In fact the local Toyota dealer wanted my VIN number to be certain to order the correct part. I was quoted a price of $215 (more than I can spend) how do you feel about a recycled unit from a scrap dealer?. I know previously you said it did not matter where the car was produced, do you still feel that is not an issue? Please respond RonK
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Re: camry mirror ***'y
I routinely use recycled parts. I deal with several recyclers, and I have good luck with them. If a part comes in that is bad, they replace it for free. That being said, I would have no issue replacing the mirror with a used unit.
Japanese cars start the VIN with a "J", American production cars start with a "4".
I do not see where the difference would be, but, if you can find a used Japanese production mirror, go for it first. $215.00 is a realistic price, from the dealer. Used units are much, much cheaper.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Indicator LED's can run for a very long time. It will not kill a battery that's in good shape for weeks. During long term storage, it's recommended the battery is disconnected. If these are the courtesy lights in the side mirrors, the lights will turn off on their own.
if just the mirror pop it in. use a little grease on the slots so it slips in.
if replacing whole mirror assembly take off the small triangular plastic inside the door. pull from top edge it should pop out. take off 3 nuts. if the plug for the mirror is inside the door panel then you have to remove the whole door panel.
Hi.. It was an Avensis not a camry. Unfortunately the Avenssi was not on the drop down list.
Basically The bits on the back of the galss mirror did not seem to match up with the backplate. After trying several different ways I did the following.
1. remove the black casing this leaves a cover with several holes in it.
2 slide the lugs on the mirror furthest away from the door into the slot just to the left of the round circular backplte.
3 put a screwdriver through the rear housing hole near to the door. If you look through you will see a "lug sitting on a black lip. Use the screwdriver to force the lip away from the car. the lug will slip down the side of it. release the lip and it will secure the mirror.
Note the mirror does not seem to fit 100% correctly so I've added some tape for extra security.
You'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle,
arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the
panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want
to break them. Then you can access the mirror assembly.. it's a huge pain to change such a small part
Just looked at the same handle, I drive a '93 Camry...
Look at the handle. See the orange thing on the lock button?
Right above it, insert a flat screwdriver, and pry it down & out just a bit, this will defeat the lock tab
Do the same below the lock button, under the pull handle pivot. Pry up a bit. That whole side will be loose.
Once the 2 tabs are loose, pull it forward and out. Easy. Just don't pry too hard.
You can ask as many questions as you want, Sir. That is what we are here for! No problem!
To answer your question, the connector for the mirror is behind the door panel, and it is difficult to unplug thru the side of the panel. I have already tried that years ago...
You could, if you want to, cut, splice and solder the wires, assuming that they are all of the same color, on both mirrors.
If you want, I can e-mail you a .pdf for the door panel removal procedure, FixYa is not set up to display .pdfs yet. Please advise.
The graciousness of FixYa ratings for this and the previous question would be greatly appreciated!
Unlikely a 'short,' those cause blown fuses and smoking wires.
The switch may be flaky and not contacting as it should when operated and this failure mode is called an 'open.'
Not knowing exactly how the switch is constructed nor mounted, I can't tell you how how to access it.
Many switches have expansion struts on their sides that may lock or notafter being pressed in, but using care, you might try with two butter knives you don't give a hoot about, one to slip the tip under an exposed bezel (if it has one) and the other to place under the first so when you pry by rocking the top knife back and forth, the area under and around the switch doesn't get damaged from the prying.
If you can remove the switch assembly and pull it slightly out of its hole, remove the plug or plugs and reconnect them several times to 'wipe' the surface of the connector(s). Sometimes the crappy plating on connectors just stops conducting from oxidation.
If the switch is constructed so that some 'tuner (or contact) cleaner' (from an electronics store) can be forced into the innards of the switch, you may be able to restore function.
I don't think it is a fuse problem as there is probably one fuse which services multple devices but it could be a failed motor.