I want to remove the electric car starter from my 1992 Stealth ES
Everytime I open my door, my lights blink for about 2 mins then go off (even when alarm is dis-armed) I'd like to eliminate the electric starter brain but need a diagram to do so. Also, maybe a bad ground, but when car is running my heater fan will not work unless the drivers side power window switch is pushed up...weird I know. I've had no problems but I rolled it over 3 years ago and swapped motor into a new chassis and then this started to happen..any ideas guys?...
Re: I want to remove the electric car starter from my...
Your lights flash from the etacs alarm going off. have you tried permigrounding it ? there is a write up somewhere out there where you gound out one of the connector so it always receives the disarm signal, prevents it from going off. If your window switch is connecting to your heater controls then you got a crossed wire somewhere. are you familier with troubleshooting procedure? the nessicary wireing diagrams are in the mistubishi electrical service manual.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It's inside the black plastic evaporator air box behind the dash board. You can get it out without taking off the dash. Remove the glove box and the plastic panel below it.
To get it out, you have to disconnect some electrical connectors (you'll see them) go to the engine side of the firewall and remove the refrigerant lines and drain hose.
Inside the car, most of the screws holding the air box in place are visible and easy to find, except for two that are hiding out, pointed up toward the top of the car. To get those, you have to lay on your back under the dash, which in our car is not a comfortable position.
It sounds as though your connection is not grounded. The starter take a lot of juice from the battery and your connection has to be solid. Check and make sure it is free of debris and make certain that all connections are secure. There should be no wiggling in wires. Make sure also. That you don’t have a starter ”fuse”. Some cars have a fuse and a relay.
The click you hear may be your Fuel Pump relay. I believe this is located to the right of the shifter on the side of the tunnel under the trim piece. You'll need a phillips screw-driver to remove the trim piece.
It could be a problem that you can test quickly. You'll need someone to turn the ignition switch for you while the car is raised so that you have access to the starter. There is 1 small wire going to the solenoid from the ignition switch, it controls when the starter engages & is only supposed to light when the Ignition switch is in the start position. If when the key is in the start position you have voltage there, the switches are all working. By switches I mean the Ignition switch and one of these depending on the type you have.
There is a neutral safety switch on automatic trans. & a clutch safety switch on manual transmissions, but those are the only safegaurds betweeen the ignition switch and the solenoid.
While you're under the car, if the solenoid wire is getting power, test the bottom large lead going into the starter & see if it's got power. If so and the starter isn't turning, you either have a bad starter or some bad connections in the starting system.
Make sure the terminals and both post are clean & protected with a good coat of grease or vaseline. You should always remove the Neg.(-) cable to disconnect the power supply and prevent sparking or shorting while working on the wiring or charging the battery.
You would want to just check all of your connections next, even a bad ground wire going to the block could be causing the problem. I believe you will find a main ground and a minor ground wire on the transaxle assy, one specifically on a bellhousing bolt and those grounds need to have clean contact.
The main computer (ECU) is directly behind the radio console. Pull carpet back on left and right sides of console. It is not the 'box' lying flat (trans comp). You should be able to take the ECU out w/o removing the radio.