a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hard to tell without actually being able to see the line myself. I've run into this problem several times myself as an ASE certified master technician. Chances are that they are not all 3 brake lines. Are the lines all 3 the same size? The best way to try to gauge this if your not a technician is to grab some wrenches. Most brake lines on those older cars are 3/16". If you have a 3/16" wrench, you should be able to take the open end of the wrench and place it over the line with a snug fit. If the other two lines are fuel lines.... they should be somewhat larger and the wrench will not fit over the other two lines. Chances are that if there is that much corrosion to rust through your brake line, that the other two lines (whether they are brake or fuel lines) will also need to be replaced.
Slide the tube nut wrench over the brake line to the master cylinder connection. The master cylinder is normally on the driver's side of the engine bay and mounted on the firewall. Orient the wrench so that it fits over the tube nut on the end of the brake line.
2Disconnect the brake line. Turn the nut counterclockwise to remove. Note the location of each brake line. There are four lines total, and they need to be put back in the same location when reinstalling the lines. You may want to mark them with masking tape and permanent marker.
3Unplug the master cylinder cap electrical plug.
4Remove the brake master cylinder to brake booster bolts with a socket wrench.
5Back the master cylinder off the brake booster.
6Unbolt the bolts holding the brake booster to the firewall on your vehicle.
7Pull the cotter pin out of the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin with a pair of pliers. This is done inside the vehicle down in the driver side foot well.
8Pull the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin out to disconnect the brake pedal from the brake booster connecting arm.
9Mark and remove the vacuum hoses on the brake booster and slide the booster off the firewall.
10Install the new brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal
The master cylinder in your Dodge Caravan is responsible for forcing
fluid pressure to the four wheels when you apply the brakes. The master
cylinder is also the main storage vessel for brake fluid. If the seals
inside your master cylinder develop leaks, you will lose brake pressure
internally. This could cause problems for the brake booster, as well as
causing the brake pedal to sink to the floor when you press the pedal.
The master cylinder can be replaced in about 30 minutes.
Press the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal.
Open the hood and prop it up
with the hood support rod. Locate the master cylinder, which is mounted
to the brake booster on the bulkhead between the engine and passenger
compartments, just in front of the driver. Spray the top area of the
master cylinder liberally with brake cleaner. Push down lightly on the
master cylinder filler tube and turn it counterclockwise to remove it.
Locate the fluid-level sensor
connector(s). There may be one or two sensors on your vehicle and they
appear as wires, in a plastic housing, plugged into the side of the
master cylinder. Remove each connector by depressing the locking clip
and pulling straight out from the master cylinder.
Remove the brake lines from the
master cylinder by turning the fittings counterclockwise with the flare
nut wrench. Gently pull the brake lines away from the master cylinder.
Remove the bolts securing the
master cylinder to the brake booster by turning the nuts
counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. Pull the master cylinder
straight out, being careful to avoid spilling brake fluid on your
vehicle's painted surfaces.
Verify that the rubber O-ring
seal is in place on the new master cylinder and then slide the master
cylinder in place over the mounting studs. Thread the nuts onto the
studs by turning them clockwise. Tighten the nuts to 18 foot-pounds. You
may have to hold the booster actuator rod in position as you install
the master cylinder.
Fill the master cylinder with
new brake fluid and thread the bleeder fittings into the brake line
ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Install the rubber tubes onto
the fittings and secure the tube ends in the master cylinder filler
opening. Make sure the ends of the tubes are completely submerged.
Depress the brake pedal a number
of times, slowly and evenly, while a helper watches to ensure that no
more air escapes from the bleeder tubes. Remove the bleeder fittings by
turning them counterclockwise and carefully set them aside. Reconnect
the electrical fittings by firmly pushing straight in until they click.
Thread the brake lines into the
proper ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to
approximately 13 foot-pounds with the flare nut wrench. Have your helper
press the brake pedal slowly and evenly five times and then hold it.
Slowly crack open the front fitting by turning it a quarter-turn with
the flare nut wrench and allow the brake pedal to fall to the floor.
Have your helper hold the pedal on the floor as you tighten the fitting.
Repeat this process until no more air bubbles appear. Repeat this
process on the rear port.
Retighten the fittings to 13 foot-pounds. Install the filler tube by
placing it on the filler opening and turning it clockwise. Refill the
master cylinder to the "Fill" mark or 1/4-inch from the top
they should be 3/16" but if you want to be sure, take a quarter inch wrench and put the open end over the line if it is sloppy on the line it is 3/16" , if it fits nicely, it is 1/4" . that is the only two sizes they could of used.
Presuming you have NO leaks in the hydraulic system,it would be a bad brake master cylinder.What's happening is,the piston inside the master cylinder has rubber seals,and when the pedal goes to the floor,the master cylinder is leaking internally,past the rubber seals.If the brake booster was bad,the symptom would be an extrememly HARD,unresponsive,brake pedal,and the engine would idle terrible (vacuum leak).Good luck.