Question about 1996 Ford Taurus

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Wrench size of master cylinder brake line fittings 96 Taurus w/pb

What is the wrench size of the master cylinder brake line fittings for a '96 Taurus wagon with power brakes?

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First and foremost, you will want to find and use a tubing wrench as oppossed to a standard wrench. It may require a 16 mm
Bill

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

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In 96 cougar is bad,,,how do i replace it


Instructions
    • Mark the location of all of the brake lines running into the brake master cylinder using masking tape and permanent marker.
    • 2Slide the tube nut wrench over the brake line running to the brake master cylinder. Orient the wrench so that it fits over the end of the tube nut.
    • 3
    • Turn the nut counterclockwise to remove it from the master cylinder.
    • 4Pull the brake lines out of the master cylinder.
    • 5Remove the bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster.
    • 6Remove the mounting bolts on the brake booster that secure it to the firewall.
    • 7Remove the cotter pin running through the head of the pin that connects the brake booster diaphragm to the back of the brake pedal with a pair of pliers.
    • 8Remove the brake booster diaphragm pin.
    • 9Remove the bolts inside the driver foot well that secure the brake booster to the firewall.
    • 10Install a new power brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal

Oct 19, 2012 | 1996 Mercury Cougar XR7

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Brake fluid leak before the brake cylinder


Hard to tell without actually being able to see the line myself. I've run into this problem several times myself as an ASE certified master technician. Chances are that they are not all 3 brake lines. Are the lines all 3 the same size? The best way to try to gauge this if your not a technician is to grab some wrenches. Most brake lines on those older cars are 3/16". If you have a 3/16" wrench, you should be able to take the open end of the wrench and place it over the line with a snug fit. If the other two lines are fuel lines.... they should be somewhat larger and the wrench will not fit over the other two lines. Chances are that if there is that much corrosion to rust through your brake line, that the other two lines (whether they are brake or fuel lines) will also need to be replaced.

Aug 14, 2012 | Lincoln Town Car Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace brake booster


  • Slide the tube nut wrench over the brake line to the master cylinder connection. The master cylinder is normally on the driver's side of the engine bay and mounted on the firewall. Orient the wrench so that it fits over the tube nut on the end of the brake line.
  • 2Disconnect the brake line. Turn the nut counterclockwise to remove. Note the location of each brake line. There are four lines total, and they need to be put back in the same location when reinstalling the lines. You may want to mark them with masking tape and permanent marker.

  • 3Unplug the master cylinder cap electrical plug.
  • 4Remove the brake master cylinder to brake booster bolts with a socket wrench.
  • 5Back the master cylinder off the brake booster.
  • 6Unbolt the bolts holding the brake booster to the firewall on your vehicle.
  • 7Pull the cotter pin out of the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin with a pair of pliers. This is done inside the vehicle down in the driver side foot well.
  • 8Pull the brake pedal to brake booster connecting pin out to disconnect the brake pedal from the brake booster connecting arm.
  • 9Mark and remove the vacuum hoses on the brake booster and slide the booster off the firewall.
  • 10Install the new brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal
  • Aug 06, 2012 | 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII

    1 Answer

    Replace mastercylinder'


    The master cylinder in your Dodge Caravan is responsible for forcing fluid pressure to the four wheels when you apply the brakes. The master cylinder is also the main storage vessel for brake fluid. If the seals inside your master cylinder develop leaks, you will lose brake pressure internally. This could cause problems for the brake booster, as well as causing the brake pedal to sink to the floor when you press the pedal. The master cylinder can be replaced in about 30 minutes.
    • 1 Press the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal.
    • 2 Open the hood and prop it up with the hood support rod. Locate the master cylinder, which is mounted to the brake booster on the bulkhead between the engine and passenger compartments, just in front of the driver. Spray the top area of the master cylinder liberally with brake cleaner. Push down lightly on the master cylinder filler tube and turn it counterclockwise to remove it.
    • 3 Locate the fluid-level sensor connector(s). There may be one or two sensors on your vehicle and they appear as wires, in a plastic housing, plugged into the side of the master cylinder. Remove each connector by depressing the locking clip and pulling straight out from the master cylinder.
    • 4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder by turning the fittings counterclockwise with the flare nut wrench. Gently pull the brake lines away from the master cylinder.
    • 5 Remove the bolts securing the master cylinder to the brake booster by turning the nuts counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. Pull the master cylinder straight out, being careful to avoid spilling brake fluid on your vehicle's painted surfaces.
    • 6 Verify that the rubber O-ring seal is in place on the new master cylinder and then slide the master cylinder in place over the mounting studs. Thread the nuts onto the studs by turning them clockwise. Tighten the nuts to 18 foot-pounds. You may have to hold the booster actuator rod in position as you install the master cylinder.
    • 7 Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid and thread the bleeder fittings into the brake line ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Install the rubber tubes onto the fittings and secure the tube ends in the master cylinder filler opening. Make sure the ends of the tubes are completely submerged.
    • 8 Depress the brake pedal a number of times, slowly and evenly, while a helper watches to ensure that no more air escapes from the bleeder tubes. Remove the bleeder fittings by turning them counterclockwise and carefully set them aside. Reconnect the electrical fittings by firmly pushing straight in until they click.
    • 9 Thread the brake lines into the proper ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to approximately 13 foot-pounds with the flare nut wrench. Have your helper press the brake pedal slowly and evenly five times and then hold it. Slowly crack open the front fitting by turning it a quarter-turn with the flare nut wrench and allow the brake pedal to fall to the floor. Have your helper hold the pedal on the floor as you tighten the fitting. Repeat this process until no more air bubbles appear. Repeat this process on the rear port.
      Retighten the fittings to 13 foot-pounds. Install the filler tube by placing it on the filler opening and turning it clockwise. Refill the master cylinder to the "Fill" mark or 1/4-inch from the top

    Oct 05, 2011 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

    1 Answer

    1988 Dodge Dakota brake line size question


    they should be 3/16" but if you want to be sure, take a quarter inch wrench and put the open end over the line if it is sloppy on the line it is 3/16" , if it fits nicely, it is 1/4" . that is the only two sizes they could of used.

    Jun 06, 2010 | 1988 Dodge Dakota

    1 Answer

    How do i replace a power brake booster on a 97 ford taurus


    1. Step 1 Mark the brake lines coming into and out of the master cylinder using masking tape and permanent marker.
    2. Step 2 Orient the tube wrench so that it grabs the end of the nut by first sliding it over the brake line.
    3. Step 3 Pull the brake lines out of the master cylinder.
    4. Step 4 Unbolt the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster.
    5. Step 5 Slide the master cylinder off the brake booster.
    6. Step 6 Remove the bolts that hold the brake booster to the firewall.
    7. Step 7 Remove the cotter pin from the pin holding the back of the brake pedal to the master cylinder.
    8. Step 8 Slide the brake booster to brake pedal pin out of the mounting bracket.
    9. Step 9 Pull the brake booster off the firewall.
    10. Step 10 Install the new brake booster. Installation is the reverse of removal.

    Apr 24, 2010 | 1997 Ford Taurus

    2 Answers

    Cant build presure on brakes for 1970 beetle


    Bleed them.  Get some DOT 3-4 fluid (non-silicone) to keep the reservoir topped up as you do so.  The sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF.  You'll need a 7mm box-end wrench and some WD-40 if you're running original German wheel cylinders.  If you're using Brazilian or Mexican replacements, you'll need an 8mm wrench.  If you need to replace a wheel cylinder, you'll also need an 11mm wrench for the brake line and a 13mm wrench to dismount the cylinder itself.  If you're dealing with rear wheels, you'll also need a 36mm (or 1-7/16) socket and breaker bar (preferably farm tractor 3/4 drive style) and at least 5 feet of pipe as a cheater bar (I use 10').  If you're dealing with front wheels, a metric allen wrench set will be needed as well.  If there is no air in the lines and no fluid leaks, suspect the master cylinder and plan to remove the gas tank to get to it easily unless you have a lift.  NOTE:  You COULD find that the rod that connects the brake pedal to the master cylinder is out of adjustment.  Be sure you check all flexible hoses.  If it looks questionable, replace it!

    Good luck!

    Jan 12, 2010 | 1998 Volkswagen Beetle

    1 Answer

    How to change a master cylinder on 99 e250


    i do agree with the haynes manual.

    First off, pb blaster is your best friend for brake line bolts. You want to **** as much of the brake fluid out of the resivour as you can, Then you need to get the brake lines off the master cylinder that is on there. make sure you use the right size flare nut wrench when you are taking the lines off. rounding off brake line bolts is not fun, trust me. once the lines are off, ( turn counter clockwise) Just make sure you have a towel to put under the brake lines. for excess fluid. then with a ratchet, and extension, and socket you need to take the master off the brake booster. Also disconnect any electrical connectors and keep them clear ofthe brake fluid. When you have the 2 bolts out of the brake booster, the master should pull out and then your ready to work on installing the new one. when you get a new ,master, you can either bench bleed it, or if you want to, you can also install the new one, line up the hole in the brake booster, put the 2 bolts back on, then you need to bleed the master. Most come with instructions.
    1. Begin by removing the cap.
    2. Follow the directions that come with the kit to select the suitable adapters, and then connect the adapters and tubes to the ports on the cylinder. The other ends of the tube extend down into the master cylinder, and are held in place by a plastic clip.
    3. With the bleeder kit installed, fill the master cylinder about halfway with new brake fluid. Use a large screwdriver to depress the valve assembly inside the master cylinder. If you do not have a vise you can mount the master cylinder on the vacuum brake booster and bleed the master cylinder.
    4. Small bubbles will appear in the fluid. Continue working the valve assembly until no more bubbles appear. This indicates that the cylinder has been thoroughly bled.
    once it is bled then you hook up the brake lines, and bleed all the brakes. starting with the furthest from the master cylinder. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. make sure you check the brakes to make sure there is no air, better to be safe then sorry. also, check anything you had disconnected, to make sure it is not leaking.

    In simple terms, by just looking at it, you can figure out how to do the master cylinder, but to be safe, get a repair manual.

    Mar 23, 2009 | 2002 Ford E250

    1 Answer

    96 Taurus brakes


    Presuming you have NO leaks in the hydraulic system,it would be a bad brake master cylinder.What's happening is,the piston inside the master cylinder has rubber seals,and when the pedal goes to the floor,the master cylinder is leaking internally,past the rubber seals.If the brake booster was bad,the symptom would be an extrememly HARD,unresponsive,brake pedal,and the engine would idle terrible (vacuum leak).Good luck.

    Jul 10, 2008 | 1994 Ford Taurus

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