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The left axle is a little tricky I use a crow bar and tuck the curved end in behind the cup of the axle then look for a good sturdy position on the transmission and do a quick snap on the crowbar and the axle pops out. Be ready with an oil pan if you did not drain the transmission oil as it will come out. Also Saturn transmissions get serviced with dexron III even the manual transmissions. When reinstalling the new axle place the transmission end in first and get the snap ring to hold before re-assembling the rest of it. Is best to insert the end of the axle into the transmission, then hold the axle straight while pushing inward on the axle until you feel the cv joint bottom out inside the cup then with a dead blow hammer, strike the outer end of the cv joint and you should be able to feel the inner snap into place. To make sure that it is reach in and grab the inner axle you should not be able to pull it back out by hand. If you try to hammer on the inner cv joint during installation you take the chance of damaging the boot. And causing premature failure of the inner axle cv joint. Hope this helps.
use a large pry bar pry the inner tripod cv joint out of the transaxle differential gears.you have a retaining circlip that holds transaxle in place in the transaxle.besure to replace circlip and o ring seal on the transaxle stub shaft.torque strut assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts.install the nuts to the attaching bolts and while holding bolt heads torque to 125 ft lbs and torque axle hub nut 125 ft lbs
Is it a standard tranny or auto? The CV joints usually make an awful racket before they go, the bearings and seals go out, and it will leak oil, But I don't think it would be gear oil in an automatic, I might be wrong, been a while since I messed with CV joints, don't have any cars with front drive anymore. The auto tranny fluid is red, and thin, gear oil is black and thick, like maple syrup. In case you didn't know, The CV joints are an easy fix for most shops, they used to do it for about $150, I have no idea what they charge now. Check it out. Hope this helps.
it sure sounds like wheel bearings, however, the clicking/knocking sound is more related to the cv joints. If the spindle nut was loose, it would account for a knocking sound/feel as well. Have the bearings checked before you spend crazy amounts on cv joints.
The out put shaft bearing may have gone bad and the transmission oil is leaking out and running down the CV joint on the out side. The other thing to is check the CV Joint, if it's the inside joint. It will not make any clicking noise, just the out side joint where the wheel hub is and when your making a turns is when it makes the clicking noise. The best thing to do is to jack the car up and make sure you use stands to secure it to make sure the car does not comedown on you. Inspect the CV joint, look for excessive play and oil leak from the transmission if any. Good luck and keep me posted, Oh and don't for get to check your transmission fluid level.
All fixed now ! Problem was oil leaking from bell housing when garage took everything apart and inspected the rear main & torque converter seals. Found also split boot on RH inner CV joint. All in all, a lot of time spent but all now ok.
I had the same problem on a recent trip to Mozambique.I found a very knowledgable mechanic in Komatipoort! He says it is always the left rear CV that works hardest when towing a heavy trailer / boat etc. A circlip works loose inside the diff...he repaired mine in less than an hour and it cost me R450-00 including the new oil! He also bent the new circlip slightly oval to prevent future occurances.
Do not drive like this for a long period without having it fixed.!