Question about 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder
I have a 2000 mitsibushi eclipse gt with a v-6 -90,000 miles. started out with a rough idle thought was water in fuel, then lugging going down road, wouldnt run over 30, changed distributor cap and rotor, still running ruff so changed fuel pump, not whole assembly just the pump with the filter attached, rough idle stopped but when you drive it and let off the gas it jumps, cuts out, give gas it catches up with itself and runs again, took to autozone coded misfire and mass airflow, but figured codes were from rough running and undoing airflow when replaced distributor, have also checked for vaccum leaks, none found. let car sit over night was told to try changing plugs and wires, went to put plugs in and the man doing it for me said car wouldnt start, will turn over but not start, he replaced plugs and wires, even the plugs in the intake(i think that is right) still wont start. So i pulled it to the local shop, they checked for codes still only have mass airflow and misfire code, which he says wouldnt cause it to not start therefore he doesnt think it is sensor. he pulled a plug out said he is getting fire but not strong fire, timing looks fine, but did find gas in plug, the plug was wet with fuel. without spending alot for him to search it out he is not sure,since someone had already worked on it and it was running. i am 450.00 + into guessing and running out of money, the only option i have is a dealer but know that can be expensive. can you give me any tips on what it could be? is the fuel pump and plugs in wrong? could it be a sensor? any help would be great. thank you
I hate to be the one to tell you this but if there is fuel,oil,water getting into your plugs than you have bad rings. the vehicle will not start because it is not getting enough compression to do so. If you love the car and would like it to run again it will cost about $1000.00 to have the rings done if not more. But since there is water than fuel getting into your plugs than it is a defenent sign that your rings are bad.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
If the timing belt is broken, chances are you would hear the pistons banging into the open valves as the engine turned over (broken timing belt means cam is not turning, and some valves will be open.).
Please reply what led up to the engine not starting, from the last time that the engine ran.
Posted on Feb 02, 2009
Hello, there is an adjuster that you will need to loosen in order to bring the parking brake shoes in so you can slide the rotor off. If I recall correctly when you take the riim off there should be a hole in the rotor and hub that will let you get to the adjuster. If there isn't you might be able to reach it from the back. Use a flat tipped screwdriver to push on the teeth to turn it. If the rotor feels stuck to the hub you'll want to smack the surface that the rim bolts on between the lug nuts repeatidly and hard with a hammer. That will free the rotor from the hub. DON'T hit the brake pad serface. If you can't get to the adjuster or it is froze up you might have to use force rocking the rotor back and forth. Just take your time and watch for anything if it falls out of place. If anything falls out of place I can probably get you a diagram of how it's suppose to go back together or explain placement of parts if you let me know what they look like. If you have abymore questions about this feel free to ask.
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
look for access panels in rear hatch there will be one on each side remove those and there will be 10 ml nuts holding the light housings on remove those then you can access the lights
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
The studs can be pressed out but most mechanics will just tap them out with a large hammer on the car after removing the wheel, the caliper & the rotor. You can look at the new one you're putting back in & see the ridges at the base where they "lock" into position when installed to prevent them from turning when removing or installing the lug nuts. Make sure the threads are the same, the length & of course the mounting area must be a match to the one removed.
There are a few areas where you can drive the stud out without causing any damage to the parts behind the wheel hub & you'll have to watch clearance behind them & use the same location for any you remove.
This same location with clearance will be where you need to reinstall them, once into the hole & ready to be drawn solid ready for use, draw them up with the lug nut and any spacer or washers you have, or just the nut & draw the stud flush with the rear of the wheel hub. then you'll know it's solid. You don't want to do this with the wheel on as you can't verify that they are flush, you don't want one coming loose as you're trying to change a tire, or finish this job, you can't get the wheel off.
Posted on Feb 13, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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