My heater is really messed up. a year ago it was the heat adjuster doors that went, fixed that now the wiring harnass below passenger dash are burnt. replaced that and was told that the heater resister caused the burning. replaced that now they tell me the blower motor is causing surges which is burning up the resister and wiring. Is this possible it seems im being taken. After i dropped the vehicle off at this shop i was given a BEWARE OF THIS SHOP speech from a friend.
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HAVE YOU HAD IT PRESSURE TESTED?4.0L ENGINE?IF SO, REMOVE VALVE COVER..LOOK FOR A REDDISH SLIMY DEPOSITS..IF PRESENT..CYLINDER HEAD MAY BE CRACKED BETWEEN ROCKER ARM PEDESTALS..HAVE SEEN THIS BEFORE..NO EXTERNAL LEAKS..NO LEAKS INTO COMBUSTION CHAMBER..OIL LOOKS OK..CHECK THIS AFTER YOU GET PRESSURE TESTED..DON'T FORGET HEATER ARERA AS WELL
Sounds like you need a blower motor resistor located down under dash on pass side next to blower motor. This is a comon problem and I have changed many of them. thats just the fan speed problem. Ive seen the blend doors break easily on those jeeps. thats inside the heaer core box and moves the flap from hot air to cold air. If it is stuck halfway -or mostly to cold- you may only get luke warm air. If they had the heater core out-maybe they possibly broke it.
I have the same problem... If you have the auto climate control like I do there is a resistor at the bottom of the HVAC assembly right where the passengers foot would go. Be careful playing with these wires but you can wiggle them around and sometimes it worksish. But I've seen jeeps that the entire inside has burnt out because of that wiring. It is hard to find this part without going to the dealership stores say they can order it and then call later and say they cant. But you have to replace both the wiring and the heater resistor which will be a good days worth of work.
I purchased a Blen Door repair kit. for my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee after having only cold air blow out of the passenger side for over a year. I found it on EBay. It requires you remove the glove box, cut open the heater box and replace the blend door. I really didn't want to cut that open, however, with the tape that comes with it, I have had no problems with it leaking any air. The dual control no longer works, the temperature is now completely controlled by the drivers side, but to save $1200, I was willing to do this. I have taken the entire thing out before to replace the heater core, didn't want to do it again.
First check the heat control lever from on end to the other. Now this noise really 'sounds' like a mouse has made a nest inside the heater ducts. Or the flip door near the heater fan is out of place. It wouldn't hurt to flush the heater rad. Frankster016