My corolla won't start 4 nothing, it cranks but ingine won't run. i have replace distributor, oxigen sensor, wires set, rotor, dist. cap, thermostat sensor u name it. now the weird part is i get no spark from distributor and i have changed it twice. question: does the computer has to do with the sparks and distributor itself? should i change it?
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well, to answer this we must know history, even the FSM states this. its a toy engine so you have all facts online to match that engine. 1: it was wrong all along. timing ? 2: it was ok, time wise and want to just swap it out. ?
ILL shoot for the moon here, go easy way, #2 mark all wires. 1,2,3,4 (1 is water pump side, 4 is tranny side.0 mark cap terms too. now transfer marks from old cap diz to new. now remove cap on old put crank at TDC such that #1 cap tower is at #1 wire. this is called TDC #1 firing. (crank pulley marks are as FSM shows then remove dizzy. drop in new dizzy such that rotor still aligns with #1 cap tower term marked above. clamp down dizzy now do fine timing set running per FSM.
all this is at alldata.com and for if #1 is true, all wrong to start.
the above works for all dizzy cars made, mostly.
all this and more here. vast info, all free too. http://w ww.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/9068-geo-prizm-toyota-corolla.html
90% of the time it is the distributor or coil, are you sure you have a good distributor, the other thing would be the timing belt, is the dist spinning when you crank the engine? make sure the timing belt did not pop.
this car also uses an igniter , if i remember correctly, but they do not not go bad often but could be.
before u replace the whole dist. have u first checked for fuel delivery on the carb or fuel rail, and then if u have that then check the spark plug wire by removing one while cranking by arcing to metal , if you see spark then dist is good if not then replace, but if dist is good and still no start then check coil pack and or all fuses
up to 1994 Previa's the cam sensors are located in the distributor, there is one for each cam. labeled G1 & G2 which are the center 2 of the 4 wires to the distributor, if you want to test them first. Also, top wire is crank sensor, bottom is ground.
I believe you will have to replace the whole distributor.
you said you repl dist cap that means you don't have a crank sensor you have electronic ing module. remove your elec ing module have it tested most auto parts stores could test your module, or check your coil at the neg terminal. should have power. if not you lost your primary volt from your batt.your secondary power is coming from your electronic ing module from the module to the pos terminal on the coil, when the eng cranks,from the coil to the dist cap , from the dist cap center to the rotor then out to the plugs,this all happen pervided the timing belt or timing chain is ok. the cumbustion chainber needs 3 things , thats fuel, air, and spark.
It sounds like you have a bad cam sensor. It is located in the distributor for most models, and when it starts to go bad, you get that result. It will eventually get to where it will not crank. It could be a number of things, like the O2 sensor, or the MAF sensor, but the cam is the most common.