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things that have to be checked during a brake replacement process
the caliper pistons have to move back easily when fitting new pads
the caliper body has to move freely on the mounting pins to allow the centralization on the disc rotor
the brake bleeder nipple has to be opened when pushing the pistons back as the displaced fluid build sup pressure in the reservoir
check that the fluid level in the reservoir is not above the full line
check the brake master cylinder is operational and compensating ports are not blocked
basically the problems is that the pads are in contact with the disc and that is generating heat. that heat expands the brake fluid that has to be allowed to flow back to the reservoir
if the expansion of fluid is prevented either by over full reservoir or faulty mastery cylinder preventing the free flow back to the reservoir then the expansion applies the pad more tightly to the disc which in turns creates more heat and more expansion of the fluid
At this point and before you do anything else ,my steps would be to flush the system out using metholated spirits by filling the reservoir and then bleeding each wheel until clear fluid came out
when this is accomplished any black junk in the system is removed
fill the reservoir with new brake fluid and repeat the bleeding process until only brake fluid comes out
Metholated spirits is compatible with brake fluids and is recommended for the purpose
having cleaned out the system and ensured the free movement of the calipers on the mounting pins the pads should be in light contact with the discs and hubs should spin free after brakes are applied and released
In practice pads always touch the disc as there is no method of pulling the ads back and it is the air friction between pad and spinning disc that gives a minute clearance when travelling and if that ability is not allowed then the problems that you have will result
Yes, it's typical for any vehicle to have the front brake pads and rotors replaced at 40,000 miles or less. A complete service would involve (2) new front brake rotors, (1 set) of new front brake pads (this includes 4 pads), brake fluid, silicone brake grease for the slide pins and possibly new slide pins (If they're corroded) and rubber seals for the slide pins. Because of the age of your vehicle, it's always a good idea to have the brake fluid changed (This means that your mechanic should bleed the brake system by opening the bleed screw on all (4) brake calipers). Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and will start to break down (Lower the boiling point) and cause rust inside the system making your brakes less effective. Look at the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. The fluid should appear either clear (Perfectly clean) or slightly yellowish. If it appears to be light to dark brown, it's time to change it. If I were you, I would shop around for prices at other reputable service shops. Your dealer is going to charge you top dollar for this service. Hope this helps.
check that fluid level is ok, by changing pad and opening calipers you may have lost fluid our of resovoir.
if your discs where not changed or skimmed at the same time you will have ridges, that do not match to the smooth pads, when you drive for a few miles eventually the pads will wear down and form the shape of the discs.
if they continue to be soft, bleed the fluid to make sure there is no air in it, if the brakes are still soft after this you should replace the brake fluid completely if it has not been done for a while as brake fluids absorbes moisture and that makes the brakes feel spongy or soft.
check your front brake pads and see if they need replaced then check your brake fluid after you change them. If you add brake fluid first you will leak brake fluid out when you compress the calipers to change the front brake pads. In the end make sure your brake master cylinder is full of dot 3 brake fluid before you drive.
Normally a "pulsing" brake pedal means that that you have a warped brake rotor or the brake caliper is lose. I would start by taking the front wheel off and inspecting the brake pads and the rotor. If the brake pads are worn down bad replace them. Pay special attention to the brake rotors also as if the are grooved very bad, they should also be replaced.
They are rather easy to replace, disconnect the brake hose, and remove the caliper as you did replacing the pads. You'll need to then bleed the caliper until clear fluid, with no air bubbles come from the bleeder screw. Check that you don't have a collapsed brake hose, not letting the fluid return to the master cylinder.
For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!! For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. (On my car y have 288 mm). After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 11. Install both caps. 12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!
try these websites www.autozone.com and www.alldatadiy.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your SUV wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.
I have taken the brake caliper of the rear passenger side and renewed the seals in it i have also renewed the brake pads in that wheel i have tried to bleed it before renewing the pads in the outherside but when i open the bleed nipple and push the peddle down there is no braked fluid coming out i also renewed the nipple.When you take the brake pipe off the caliper ther is still no fluid coming out also there is no pressure on the pedal 1997 audi a4 1800