The only time we got the temperature gage to move was when we heated it up with a torch, or put a thermoste in the return line to the rad. Otherwise the engine stays at 70 and we get very little if any heat.
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If you have checked the radiator coolant level and it is correct, I would think that maybe your thermostat is stuck in the open position which will not allow your engine to come to the proper operating temperature.
Just a guess, but I don't think you did this yourself. Take it back to the mechanic and complain.
You didn't say if this was the result of the flush and thermostat change or if you had the problem previously. I tend to think this is a thermostat problem still. It is possible the mechanic simply forgot to install the new thermostat (remote, but possible).
If you have no heat and the temperature guage is pegged cold, the engine is not reaching operating temperature. It is the thermostat's job to regulate this. Does the radiator get warm?
I would take it back to the mechanic if you trust him, or try another if you don't.
Well sounds like first start your car record where the temp needle reads, then let the engine warm up (with out driving) then rev the engine to about 3500-4000rpm a couple times does your needle move at all record then hold your rpm at 3500 for about 5-10 sec does this get the gauge to drop? sounds like you may "if not over heating at all and coolant level and circulation is good" have a circuit problem, you can test this by going to auto zone and ask for a scan to be done on your car when the plug into your OBD 2 ask them to go into DATA STREAM and then check to see what temp your ECM thinks the engine coolant is at does it match your gauge at idle and at 3500rpm if not its a faulty circuit
If you have a spark knock on acceleration your timing could be over advanced or you can be at a too high operating temperature.First check the timing, with the vehicle in operating temperature place the transmission in park or nuetral with the parking brake engage Engine turned off..Remove the vacuum hose on the distributor and plug it.Connect the timing light.Disconnect the single wire near the distributor.Start the engine and bring it in operating temperature.Check the timing.Your timing should be at 10 degrees before top dead center
Now the temperature gauge is non op you need to make sure you are at operating temperature and not over heating. After a quick test drive turn off the engine and feel the radiator is there any cold spots that is causing the vehicle to overheat. You could have a plugged radiator.
Did you run engine from cold, WITH HEATER ON, and fill cap off when re-filling system? If not, try that and see what happens. Let the engine get up to operating temperature and rad fan come on to cool 2 or 3 times before putting cap back on.
First of all, it doesn't sound like your thermostat is working correctly to keep good hot/warm air coming , so I would change that, or have it changed for better heating inside. If you lift the hood & look in front of your radiator, On the engine side, you'll see a fan attached to, or in front of the radiator. It won't come on until the coolant temperature gauge gets up to proper operating temperature. Without getting in to too much detail, have your thermostat changed, and my guess is everything else will start working as it should, and whoever does the work, should know enough to check the fan operation when they do the thermostat.