Question about 1992 Chevrolet G20

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Starter problem my 1992 g20 van keep grining up starter and flywheel,what is going on with that? someone said it might be the starter relay that control the amount of fire to the starter.I can be sitting at a stop light and it cut off and it will start back up,but it keep a lot of grining noise and dragging before starting.very undepentable,can someone help?

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  • irvink11 Nov 19, 2008

    ajkill,told me to to shim the starter,but I did the shim before I even posted the problem the first time.would it be some kind of relay that control the fire going to the starter,that might cause this problem?This thing be doing some serious grinding.

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Hi,

If the shim has not corrected the grinding noise, then possibly two (2) causes:

  • ignition switch (most likely);
  • starting solenoid (likely).
A remote possibility is if you have an aftermarket alarm/security or remote starters installed.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

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You may need to have shims put in to stop the grinding

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

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Starter noise during cranking and after the engine fires is often a result of too much or too little distance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. A high pitched whine during cranking (before the engine fires) can be caused by the pinion and flywheel being too far apart. Likewise, a whine after the engine starts (as the key is released) is often a result of the pinion-flywheel relationship being too close. In both cases flywheel damage can occur. Shims are available in 0.015 in. (0.3mm) sizes to properly adjust the starter on its mount. You will also need a flywheel turning tool, available at most auto parts stores or from most auto tool store or salesperson.
If your van's starter emits the above noises, follow the shimming procedure:

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the flywheel inspection cover on the bottom of the bellhousing.
  3. Using the flywheel turning tool, turn the flywheel and examine the flywheel teeth. If damage is evident, the flywheel should be replaced.
  4. Insert a screwdriver into the small hole in the bottom of the starter and move the starter pinion and clutch assembly so the pinion and flywheel teeth mesh. If necessary, rotate the flywheel so that a pinion tooth is directly in the center of the two flywheel teeth and on the centerline of the two gears, as shown in the accompanying illustration.
  5. Check the pinion-to-flywheel clearance by using a 0.020 in. (0.5mm) wire gauge (a spark plug wire gauge may work here, or you can make your own). Make sure you center the pinion tooth between the flywheel teeth and the gauge - NOT in the corners, as you may get a false reading. If the clearance is under this minimum, shim the starter away from the flywheel by adding shim(s) one at a time to the starter mount. Check clearance after adding each shim.
  6. If the clearance is a good deal over 0.020 in. (0.5mm) - in the vicinity of 0.050 in. (1.3mm) plus, shim the starter towards the flywheel. Broken or severely mangled flywheel teeth are also a good indicator that the clearance here is too great. Shimming the starter towards the flywheel is done by adding shims to the outboard starter mounting pad only. Check the clearance after each shim is added. A shim of 0.015 in. (0.3mm) at this location will decrease the clearance about 0.010 in. (0.2mm).

Good luck...

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

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