Weird humming noise & over heating while sitting in traffic
I have a 2001 VW Jetta VR6, I have had the water pump & thermostat replaced, radiator, block and heater core flushed and I am still getting the humming noise and over heating. Only happens when sitting in traffic. I turn the heater on full blast to try to cool down the engine. The fans have been checked and are working fine. Mechanic can't seem to figure out the problem and I can't afford to keep paying him for maybe's. Once I start moving, it cools down, but starts to heat up again when I am sitting. My commute is a little over an hour, this happens about 40 minutes into my commute, but only when I am sitting in traffic, never when I am cruising along. Any ideas?
Re: Weird humming noise & over heating while sitting in...
You might want to check the tention on the belt that drives the water pump, also give the pully for the water pump a good shake to see if the bearings are starting to go, the impeller blade may not be able to keep up at idle RPM
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Re: Weird humming noise & over heating while sitting in...
The humming is the noise the coolant makes when the car overheats and forces open the relief valve in the radiator cap and flows through the small hose to the recovery bottle., it you had all this work this done only 2 things can cause the issue, one is a problem with the cooling fan, the other is a blown head gasket, which I suspect is the problem, before you flushed the system was the coolant rusted?
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Try removing the thermostat and reverse flushing the motor, Actually try flushing in both directions, this will tell you if you have a circulation problem but 1 thing you should know is that the water goes in the water pump and out the thermostat, try running it without the thermostat and check your water flow
If both your heater hoses are hot, the heater core is circulating fluid. If only one is hot, and one is cool-then the core is plugged or has an air block, or a valve in the heater line is closed if that applies.
If the engine stays at normal operating temperature, doesn't overheat at all, there should not be a problem with the water pump.
The problem may be with the doors in the heater case not operating properly.
my 98 Blazer I had to replace radiator water pump heatercore and hoses. Had head gasket go. Once that happens air and dexcool corrode cooling system. Do you smell antifreeze? Are you loosing antifreeze? Check oil see if its another color not clear or black but i think light brown. Have you flushed out system?
drain coolant system locate heater cores hoses going through firewall you need to buy the radiator flush kit at any auto parts stores. remove heater cores hoses from one end or buy extra long heater hoses same size as heater core hoses in vechicle at auto parts store use the flush kit when you flush through one of the heater core hoses let the other hose drain in a drain pan when you use home garden hose use low water pressure dont use garden hose to the max or you will rupture heater core. your best bet let radiator shop flush whole coolant system. because heater cores hoses are in a tight spot.make sure engine off if you just going to flush out heater core only .after flushing heater core good time to replace heater core hoses.if job too hard or complicated let radiator shop flush out radiator the engine block and heater core because if radiator stopped up or engine block stopped up the gunk and rust will reenter plug up heater core.if you tight on money you can flush out your own radiator.drain out radiator using large drain pan. remove top radiator hose and remove bottom radiator hoses connect to water pump.use garden hose with flush kit part with water pressure not too high put garden hose to top radiator hose run water until clear water run out bottom radiator hose in drain pan,the flush out engine block remove thermostat.if you had another spare thermostat housing with RTV SILICONE SEALANT THAT HAS SET UP INSTALL THERMOSTAT HOUSING BACK TO ENGINE WITHOUT THERMOSTAT FLUSH OUT THE ENGINE BLOCK, WHEN DONE INSTALL NEW THERMOSTAT THEN INSTALL ORIGINAL THERMOSTAT HOUSING WITH NEW ORING WHICH YOU BUY AT DEALERSHIP.IF ALL SOUND COMPLICATED LET RADIATOR SHOP FLUSH OUT COOLANT SYSTEM.
Try removing the Heater hoses from heater tubes(be careful not to break heater tubes off) then back flush heater core with garden hose(Don't use a lot of pressure). Jell from antifreeze builds up in the heater core and blocks the coolant flow. If it is easier, remove the heater hoses from the engine, that is safer. Back flush the heater from the hoses. To Back Flush (The hose coming from the water pump is the inlet)(Hose going to Manifold is outlet) Back flush outlet hose! To much water pressure may cause damage to heater core!!!! Do Not ues AIR!!!!
I would flush the whole system with radiater flush then replace with new coolant. But make sure the heater is set to full heat when you flush it ( while driving around the block with flush in it) so the small radiater that has the hot water flowing through it gets flushed too. It may have some build up in it stopping the full flow of heated water/coolant through. If it is bad enough may need to remove and spray out the rubber hoses from the motor to the heater core, and possibly remove the heater core and hose it out to make it flow better and therefore increase the heating ability. Hope this helps.
it could be an air lock stopping the water from circulating properly i seem to recall this problem on the older VW Derby and audi 50 (same engine) there is a small bleed screw at the highest point on the cooling system that allows you to bleed this air out youll find its location in the manual
another thing to try is put a flushing agent through the system incase there are any blockages in the radiator itself