Re: rear axle bearings need replaceing I hear grinding
Go to Jeep and buy a bearings, seals, and collar. The bearing is held in place on the axle by a keeper collar. This must be cut off to get the old bearing and seal off. Use a wizz wheel to cut it and then whack it with a chisle
To get the axle out. Remove rear diff cover, and wheel and start taking apart. It's not a terrible job, but if you aren't very mechanically inclined, take it to a shop. Make sure you use the correct fluid in the differential.
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Hit in the rear axle may have damaged bearings or brake parts. Jack up the side you hear noise from, put on stand, then have helper rotate wheel while you look underneath and listen to see where noise is coming from. Use length of old fuel or heater hose, one end in ear, to locate exactly where noise comes from.
if it is a metallic clicking/grinding, then it is the axle bearings. get them serviced in a shop (unless you know a buddy with a press), because, if it really is the half axle bearings, it could eventually grind thru your axle, and cause an accident
The 1999 Ford Expedition is built on an F150 platform. The Expedition uses a 9.75-inch rear axle. The axles are retained with C-clips at the end of the axle shaft, inside the differential carrier. The axle bearings are of the roller type. A failed axle bearing can manifest itself as a noise at the rear wheel or gear oil leaking past the oil seal. When replacing axle bearings, the oil seals must also be replaced. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Torque the bolt to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.Click this link below for complete detailed procedure:---http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-remove-rear-wheel-bearings-on.html
This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
This could be one of several problems: If the noise increases with speed, and you are only hearing it from the rear differential and not the transmission, it could be the rear differential carrier bearings, or rear axle bearings going bad. If you are only hearing the noise upon acceleration or deceleration, the rear differential ring and/or pinion gears may be going bad and the rear differential will need an overhaul. You'll have to get the rear wheels off the ground and see if you can pinpoint the location of the noise with something such as a stethoscope. If it's coming from the rear differential, you'll need to pull the bolts and the cover to determine if the gears are still in good shape, or if there is any pitting. Same with the carrier bearings; if you see pitting/ discoloration, they'll need replacement. If the noise is coming from one side towards the end of the axle shaft near the wheel, it's most likely a axle bearing going bad, and you'll need to pull the wheels, remove the diff. cover to release the C clip which holds the rear axle in place at the differential, and pull the axle out. You also need a special tool with a slide hammer to remove the axle bearing and seal.
I had the same problem that based on interner research is common for Fords trcuks/suvs. The common problem fro rear humming "rubbing"sound might be the rear wheel bearings/seal. These will need to be replaced as it will progressivly get worse and the noise louder and eventually the bearings can sieze. I would hesitate to take to a ford dealer if I were you as it can run $500-900. Take to mechanic that knows how to replace wheel bearings and seals. My mechanic replaced them for about $150. and the bearing and seals are around $40. A good way to test this is to raise the wheel were you can freely spin by hand...if does not spin or there is a lot of friction then it might be the wheel bearings.
rear axle bearings I assume? Pull the diff cover, rotate the carrier so you can remove the pin from the center of the 4 spyder gears, push the axle in slightly, and remove large c clip from the carrier area. The axle will pull right out! These vehicles are hard on axle bearings. Look them all over.
There are 4 bolts for each rear axle. They are located behind the rear brake drums. Remove e-brake cable from rear drum and take off brake line.(carefully). I recomend draining and changing your rear differential fluid too, because if the fluid by run out of axle housing. also you should replace the seals for the axles of if you are changing the bearings. When you are done don't forget to bleed your brakes, and hooking up e-brake cable. I hope this answers your question.
First check the brakes on that side. You may be hearing the warning rivets on the brake lining. If it's good, You need to remove the axle and go to the machine shop and have a new bearing pressed on. The machine shop should only charge you about $20.00 to do this.