I WOULD NEVER ACCEPT THIS. IT DOESN'T MAKE SINCE. WOULD YOU CHANGE ONLY ONE
SHOCK ABSORBER? A STRUT IS BASICALLY A SPRING AND A SHOCK IN ONE UNIT, YOU WILL HAVE A WEAK STRUT AND A NEW ONE. I THINK YOU SHOULD INSIST ON THE PAIR.
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I will tell you if you tell me what type problem your having . Plus if your planning to replace it ,it does need programming . An the dealer is pretty much the only one who can do that . I know there are no more Oldsmobile dealers any more . A Chevy , Cadillac , Buick , Dealer would be my choice. I work for A Cadillac dealer an see a number of Pontiacs an Oldsmobile vehicles needing the same work .
Using a scan tool, retrieve the percentage of remaining engine oil. Record the remaining engine oil life.
Remove the coolant reservoir retaining fastener. Remove the coolant reservoir and set aside. Remove the 3 bolts from the strut brace. Remove the left front strut brace. Loosen the two bolts the PCM cover and remove the PCM cover from the air cleaner housing. Remove the PCM from the air cleaner housing. Disconnect the PCM electrical connectors.
I suggest having the full suspension validated at a dealer including the anti-sway assembly.
After so many years, the front struts / rear shocks are probably in need of replacement and those the the components that are primarily responsible to dampen wheel instability. I replaced mine at 160k miles and the returned control with the new struts was incredible.
Testing struts is not as simple as bouncing the car up and down as some may have you believe.
There are many good mechanics out there, many not so good, which is why I go to the dealer for the most obscure type of diagnosis. The resource of direct link, dealer service center to the factory is valuable in these instances.
Since the struts are the important suspension parts of the car specially of the front, the job must be taken seriously and done with good tools. Also the alignment must be checked after replacing of the strut which need a good sytem.
So even though the strut can be removed and fitted like removing the strut with jacking up the front , removing the wheel assembly , removing the link and pulling out down.
But care must be taken to put back with new bushes on the balance rods, check the tie rod ends and suspension bushes.
My Advice is to get the OE component replaced by the service dealer, checked, aligned with warranty.
dealers will not do warranty repairs from another shop.but if it is a recall then the only way the dealer can refuse the work is if they can prove that the job was completed by another dealer.no matter who has done the work the recall needs to be completed by the dealer ships. they may or may not give you a problem about this.
i would just keep that part to yourself and let the dealer deal with the recalls part of it.
as far as the struts yes they need to be replaced if one side or the other if not both bounch up and down.
if you can go and push up and down on the corner of the car and get it bouncing up and down progressivly more and more then they are bad .they they resist a lot and its very hard to get it to bounce then they may not need replacement.if they do need to be replaced its important to do it as soon as possable as the front hold most of the weight when in braking and turning conditions and its very easy to loose control of the car with week struts.use kyb replacments.the firmer the better i allways have liked up front.
front stuts need replacement, buy this point it would be both. you can tell most of the time buy if you hit a pot hole on the left and it makes a nosie thats the side. but after a few days of driving like this both are in bad shape and need replacement.
there is no bearing its just the strut, you can tell buy getting a jack stand and lifting the front and moving the tire side to side and back to front. usaly anything over 10-20 thouthands of an inch is bad, and that mean if you feel it it's bad.
but anyways to replace it you will need a sop, you have to compress your front srping in order to remove and install a strut.
If you have some basic tools, replacing the strut is failrly easy. 3 bolts on the inside under the hood, and the 2 large bolts on the strut where it joins the hub assembly. You may need a johnson bar (a very long bar/ratchet for leverage). It`s best to replace both sides as a new or used strut will be different from the other side. This may effect handling/safety. It`s less expensive to buy 2 used struts from the same car than to have the old strut fixed. You may also want to look at QuickStruts I believe they are called.