Question about 2004 Ford Explorer
All that works is the air conditioner, when I switch it to heating mode it contantly has a clicking noise and still blows cold air
Check the heater control valve, when u switch to heating mode, this valve is supposed to open, allowing hot engine coolant into the heater core under the dash, it is not opening the valve, the clicking is the sound from it attempting to open the valve.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
I had the same problem with this in my 2004 Explorer. The part is the "Heater Blend Door Acuator". It is located to the side of the air box on the driver's side. To get to it, it is quite a process. You have to tear almost all the interior trim off to get to it, including the center consule.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
I agree with sayerfred. If your A/C is working fine and you only hear this constant clicking noise when the temperatuer knob is moved away from the full cold or blue area, and seems more intense the farther you move the knob to warm or red area, this problem is not the blend door and can be fixed without removing the dashboard. The part needed most often for this specific condition is Ford stock #YH-1744 also known specifically as Ford part number 1L2Z- 19E616-CA. Simply and ambiguously called "Motor", UPC #031508569584, is the correct fix for the problem. I've included all of these reference numbers because the part is NOT available aftermarket (only from Ford) and being a 10 year + old vehicle, most dealers no longer stock this part. You have to convince them that this is what you need and they may have to order it, so as much info as you can give them is critical. You can in fact do this without removing the dash but you will have to remove parts of the center console and you won't necessarily be able to see what you're doing under there so you'll have to feel around with your hands a lot. Once you locate it, there are 4 screws to remove and then pull it out of the control area. It's actually helpful and more intuitive to have the replacement part in hand before starting this job to get a feel for what you're looking for. I paid around $70 USD for the part itself. Although this method is labor intensive, it's far less labor intensive than removing the entire dashboard. Should you decide to go to the extreme and remove the dashboard completely, and you can afford it, your best bet is to replace the blend door assembly (as it is a common failure) and the heater core. The labor costs would be high if you don't do it yourself, but if you go that route, it would be foolish to remove the dashboard just to fix the no heat clicking noise and not do the complete job including the blend door and core as its accessible with the dashboard removed. Hiring a complete dashboard removal/heater core & blend door job could possibly exceed the value of the vehicle itself. Bottom line: If you have the exact problem described (and nothing else wrong such as air not being directed to the proper location) the part number and no dash removal is probably the way to go. I wish you luck and hope you rate this as helpful.
Posted on Dec 06, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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