96 Vision transmission problems 2 days after waterpump changed
I had the waterpump replaced along with the timing belt and all other belts. 2 days after it getting fixed by a mechanic, the transmission went out. I'm assuming it was the transmission-it started making a grinding noise when I'd put it in drive and won't go in reverse. Could the mechanic have done anything to cause this? I have never had any transmission problems. I had just had the transmission fluid drained and a new filter put on approx. a month before I replaced the waterpump.
Re: 96 Vision transmission problems 2 days after...
I dont' think a mechanic had anythig to do with this. when a timing belt and a water pump is changed in this type of vehicle there is no interferrence with the transmission, it's only the front of the engine that is disassembled. I've heard that in some cases when a transmission flush is done as well as a fiter change, it can loosen up the dirt particles lodged within it as well as other contaminents and can cause failure. Please note that in some cases the transmission may only require a new relay ! Have it looked at for a second opinion before assuming the worst!
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I assume you are replacing the belt and also the waterpump, the waterpump is what tightens the timing belt, it spins in the housing in an oval shaped housing and tightens or loosens the belt, you need to loosen the waterpump bolts and rotate the pump to tighten the timing belt, make sure theres a small amount of slack in the belt after you tighten it, you dont what the belt too tight, you should be able to grab belt and move in and out an inch. heres a diagram to make sure all timing marks are lined up. note if the timing belt is being replaced you really should install a new waterpump and check the timing pulleys. good day.
He's just trying to upsell. The pump should have been replaced with the belt last month. I always recommend that if one goes the other should be replaced, for this very reason. Unless the water pump trashed the belt I wouldn't put the timing kit back in it. One month old... There is nothing wrong with them. But again the pump could have ate the belt, check it, if it is chewed up or missing teeth replace the belt only. And he's just giving you a line of ----, for the alignment part.
the waterpump on this car is turned by the timing belt, when you replace the waterpump on this car the timing belt should be replaced no doubt about it, the timing belt must be replaced and also the pulleys checked and if the car have 100,000 miles or more the timing belt pulleys must be replaced. the reason for this is that if for any reason the belt jumps or breakes then engine damage will occur, the pistons will bend the valves and this is very costly, there is no extra labor to do the belt it has to be removed to do the waterpump you would just pay for the parts, for example to do a waterpump it would run about $400.00, then to do it right with a waterpump timing belt and pulleys it would run 500.00,i think its a wise thing to do.this car only uses one pulley that needs replacing so i said pulleys but rather just a pulley that runs in this belt design. good day, heres a few diagrams to help explain how it works.
It is overdue time to change your timing belt and waterpump, as you are on borrowed time on the timing belt. The waterpump and tensioner should be changed along with the timing belt, as they can ruin a new timing belt if they fail. Your serpentine belt should be inspected and replaced if needed too.
I would check the Alternator, waterpump and power steering, try spraying WD40 or CRC556 on each auxillary one at a time to isolate the problem, the squeak should diminish when you hit the right bit. Don't forget to wash it off when you are finished. Good Luck
1 1/2 TO 2 hours worth of work. Since you have to pull the serpentine belt to get to the timing belt you might as well do that one while you are at it. When I do the timing belt I replace the idler pulleys, tensioner and water pump all at the same time. www.FCPGroton.com is a great place to buy the parts, they sale the timing belt, pulleys, tensioner and waterpump as a kit. Here's a good pictoral on the work: http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php
I would start by splitting up the drive train to determine if it is accessory, engine or transmission related. There are a number of things that can cause a problem like this. 1) Is the noise louder in drive or reverse. 2) I would start with heat-shields because of your "clank" description. Exhaust manifold, catalytic converter shields and any other you can find under hood or under body. 3) If all is good, check engine and transmission mounts. Make certain none have collapsed, cracked or broken. 4) If all good, remove all accessory drive belts and start engine to see if noise goes away. That's a lot to start with, so let me know what you find and we will go from there. Regards.
here is a check list for common overheating issues
A headgasket leak? To test that use a coolant mix tester.
Do the cooling fans run with the engine hot?
Is the rad cap holding pressure? This can be tested usually its easier to swap it with a working one or buy new.
Lastly the waterpump and timing belt. If the timing belt if old/high mileage or the tensioner faulty it can cause overheating. The common practice is to replace the timing belt every 100,000miles along with the waterpump and the belt tensioner