PUT NEW FRONT CALIBERS ON AS WELL AS ROTORS,PADS AND NEW BRAKE HOSES. REAR BRAKES BLEED OUT FINE,BUT FRONT WILL NOT BLEED AND THERE IS NO BRAKE PEDAL AT ALL. IS IT THE MASTER CYLINDER OR THE POWER BRAKE BOOSTER OR IS THERE SPECIAL BLEEDING PROCEGER? IT ALSO HAS ABS ON IT.I HAVE ONLY EVERY HAD TROUBLE BLEDING TO OTHER CARS. 1994 BUICK LESABRE AND 1992 PONTIAC BONNAVILLE SSEI BOTH HAD TO BE PUT ON A COMPUTOR AT A SHOP TO BE BLEEDED.IS THIS THE CASE WITH THIS CAR ALSO. THANKS AKA FASTTRUCKS69
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You will need a special tool for the back brakes,Autozone will loan it to you for 60 bucks,you will get it back when you return,I used it.I replaced brake pads front and back and both back rotors.The driver side rear had metal on metal,all disc brakes,brake pads on that rear side were completely worn down to metal,the driver side was like new,kept wondering why,replaced both rear rotors,put back together,then then I noticed where brake line hose went into brake caliber was leaking,so that caused the side with new like brake pads not to be gripping disc putting all brake pressure of that one side,so the copper fitting their was bad,put new one on and leak stopped.
Probably there is a leak in the hydraulic brake line hoses
connecting the master and the wheel cylinder hose. Also get the brakes bleeded
to remove any air the system. also get the check valve of the brake booster
checked and the vacuum hose.
Raise and secure on stands after breaking loose the lug nuts and parking brake on for front pads.. Remove wheels and spread old pads back to push cylinders back in their bores on calibers to allow for thickness of new pads. Remove the 2 sliding claiber retaining bolts and rotate caliber out of mount and secure with wire, boungie cord, or rope to take weight of caliber brake hose. Remove old pads, install new, and reassemble in reverse order. Lugs on alloy wheel should be torgued to 95 foot lbs. Block front wheels, release parking brake,and do the back ones the same way. After completing, pump brake pedal slowly several times to seat new pads. If you move the MPV without pumping first, you will have no brakes to stop. If brake fluid level is high in master cylinder, you will need to take some out first to make room for returning fluid from caliber pistons being returned to their bores prior to any brake work. Rotors should be replaced or turned if scored or warped to have better clapping of pads to rotor surface.
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
first loosen the road wheel nuts.
then jack it up.
then remove the road wheel.
then turn the wheel out (brake side)
get a g clamp put one end on the caliber and the other on the outside pad and wind nice and slowly
then remove the two bolts holding the caliber and put aside DONOT TOUCH THE BLEEDING NIPPLE OR REMOVE ANY OF THE RUBBER HOSES ON THE BRAKE LINES
open the reserveor (BRAKE FLUID CAP)
the disk (rotor) look for a retaing screw on it and remove it some cars havem some dont
then tap the disk off
asemably is the reverse of removel
To bleed you brake system, you will need brake fluid, a jar, and a couple feet of small hose that fits tightly on the bleeder screws. You should not need to remove the tires to access the bleeder screws, but you may need to raise the vehicle a bit to access them.
To bleed the system, start with the right rear wheel. Put a couple inches of brake fluid in the jar, attach the hose to the bleeder screw, put the hose in the jar of brake fluid, then open the bleeder screw. Once the bleeder screw is open, pump the brake several times. Next, close the bleeder screw. After you close the bleeder screw, remove the hose and jar, then fill the master cylinder with brake fluid.
Repeat the steps going to the left rear second, right front third, and left front last.
Once you have bled the system your brakes should be tight and working nice.
I hope this information helps you, and I wish you luck on your repair.
I would replace the rubber brake hoses at the calipers. They get damaged internally when the calipers are left hanging while replacing pads. I've seen too many garages and shops do it not knowing what is going on inside the hose.