May be CV joint?? When making tight turns, wheel problem.
When making tight turns, the front wheels seem to brake or stop turning. First, I thought the car was in 4 wheel drive, then I thought I had a brake problem, now I am thinking it is a CV joint. Tight turns seem like it is in 4 wheel drive, binding up or braking, or making the brakes tighten up. This just started.
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Re: May be CV joint?? When making tight turns, wheel...
It sounds like you are in 4wd. try hitting gas when condition arises. find a dirt road to perform this. if your in 4wd front tires will dig the dirt up and truck will lunge forward.some jeeps have all wheel drive so on dry pavement tires will skip and jump on tight turns.
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cv joints should not click as that is the first indication of a failed unit
( going slow and changing direction produces a click,click is a cv joint)
wheel bearings should not be tight as that will produce a humming noise and will result in early failure
because the axle turns with the change of direction ,the distance from the pivot point to the transmission changes and so the shaft will move in and out of the transmission to compensate
take it to an accredited drive line specialist for a diagnosis
Another problem is the CV universal joint going to the wheel. this is inside a rubber boot to protect the constant velocity universal joint and maybe the boot has been damaged and allowed water/dirt inside. Find a large open parking lot and make a tight figure eight with the steering wheel all the way over and listen to see if the noise is louder. locking the steering wheel hard over turning left and then hard over turning right and if the noise is louder then your CV joint is bad. A squealing scraping noise could be worn out brake pads allowing the small L shaped metal tab to rub on the brake rotor causing the noise too. Look at the pad, the should be very thick riding against the brake rotor. You should be able to see the L bracket and if it is against the brake rotor, new brake pads are needed. A grinding kind of noise that changes its sound when you make small turns like avoiding pot holes could be coming from a bad wheel bearing. Jack that wheel off the ground and then grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if it wiggles on the axel. There should be no play at all if the wheel bearing is good. Regards, Dennis
Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install: Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.
if you feel the pulsation in brake pedal when stopping. its a warped brake rotor thats causing it. for bad cv joint symtoms--- Unusual noises when making turns. As you are driving on the road and you make a turn at the corner, if you start hearing unusual sounds coming from under the car then this is one of the symptoms of a bad CV joint. These noises will sound like something is clicking beneath the car every time you turn the steering wheel. Evidence of a damaged boot. Steering wheel feels heavier. The steering wheel will start to feel tighter and heavier and you can hardly make simple turns to the left or right. In severe cases you might even feel heavy vibrations like you are driving down a rocky road.
CV joint and/or bearings obvious first guess. You say they are good or did you actually replace already? Check entire front wheel assembly-lug nuts tight?brake caliper/rotor positioned correctly and tight?suspension tight and in good condition?any signs of rubbing indicating abnormal part travel?
One of your CV joints are bad, inspect which CV joint needs to be replaced. Roll your windows down and make tight right and left corners in an empty parking lot slowly and listen for the clicking noise. If it's coming from the passenger side window or the drivers side window, which ever side the noise is coming from is the side that the CV joint has failed and will need to be replaced.
Thank you for using FIxya and replacing the front wheel bearing improperly buy hammering the CV joint out instead of using a wheel bearing puller will cause damage to the CV joint as to what you have described. Good luck and keep us posted.
noises during slow tight turns are usually CV joints going bad. A way to check, is to jack up one front wheel, set the parking brake, and put the car in drive without pressing the gas. Turn the wheel to both extremes, and listen for the noise. Repeat with the other front wheel (set the first one back down) and listen. Whichever makes the noise, is the side you need to change.
Could also be the upper ball joint, put a jack under the lower control arm and jack the left wheel off the ground, the trick is to try to get it at normal ride hight, grab the tire at the top and bottom and try to push and pull the top in and out inline with the ball joint. have a helper eye the ball joint and see if there is any motion(play) at the joint. If not, check the bottom the same way. if they are both good, try it side to side to check the tie rods for play, make sure the steering wheel is locked. if all checks good than it is probably the cv joint if the truck is four wheel drive, if it is not four wheel drive it's definately is not a cv joint because you don't have them. For the four wheel drive model, go to a large parking lot, put the truck in a tight left turn, this will stress the cv joint, making it click, you will hear the noise from the side with the bad joint. Then tru a hard right turn, then do the same things again, this time driving in reverse. That should allow you to isolate the noise, Please rate this four thumbs up if it helped, i appreciate your feedback. Thanks, Bob
grab the cv joint (shaft with the rubber boot that cnnects to the wheel) and see if it wobbles,but the wheels have to be straight and its got to be in 2wd and in neutral with the parking brake set...Or jack up the vehicle on that side and turn the wheel back and forth quickly and watch if the cv joint shakes.(like if its not round)if it shakes then replace the cv joint...about up to $150.00 for a rebuilt one plus a core charge.