New battery and car still won't start the next day
I have a 2000 bravada and recently had a new heater core put in; howver, now something is draining the battery. I bought a new battery and it also drained so I put on a new alternator and that did not solve the problem. There is a burning smell coming through the vents and when the car has been parked for the day it won't turn over. What do you think the problem is.
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Oct 25, 2012 - Uploaded by Lloyd Ankney
1997 Oldsmobile Bravada heater core removal ... How can I replace a blend door actuator on a 99 Bravada? .... Heater core replacement 2000 S10 4.3L ( slideshow picture ) - Duration: 3:52. by Joe Lleras 169,585 views. 3:52.
Oldsmobile bleed air in heater core Cars & Trucks ... - Fixya
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If your cooling system has any bleed screws incorporated, crack them once in a while as well. 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada heater blows cold air. Had a new heater .
are you sure its the heater core?I had a 2003 mitsu gallant and it was the a/c draining on the floor.It was the drain under the hood that needed to be sealed.You see around the drain they put something that helps with vibration and it erodes causing the water to go back in the vehicle.Find a good gasket material like something they use to put around windshields and work it around the drain.This is common in mitsus .If your sure its the heater core.Give more specific infomation
1. First you have to disconnect the Oldsmobile vehicle battery, then you have to drain the engine coolant into a clean container, most models don't have a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, so you must take off the lower radiator hose to drain the system.
2. Second you have to remove the drain tube from the heater's housing and disconnect the heater hoses from the core, to reach out the heat core you have to take off the sound insulators on both sides of the car, then the steering column's opening filler and finally the air outlet duct and the floor air outlet.
3. Third you have to disconnect the heater core cover and then remove the core-to-housing mounting clamps and remove the heater core.
4. Fourth you have to Install the new heater core and connect the mountain clamps. I did a quick online search and if you need new Heater
Core this site looks like it has cheap prices, free shipping and great
5. Fifth Replace all the core cover,rear floor air outlet, air outlet duct, steering column opening filler, sound insulators and center console (if equipped). Reattach the heater hoses to the core and the drain tube to the housing and fill the cooling system, using new coolant if the old liquid doesn't appear clean. Be sure the lower radiator hose is securely back in place before filling the radiator. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
If it is necessary to remove the heater assembly, the cooling system must be drained before removing the heater core.
When a heater core leaks, a new heater core is installed or the old one repaired. Heater Housing
The heater housing is usually under the dash and must be removed to gain access to the heater core.
Procedures for replacing the heater core vary with the year, make, and model of car. It threfore necessary to consult the manufacturer's repair manuals for the proper procedure for replacement.
The heater housing is disassembled to get to the heater core.
Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.
Remove the heater coolant hoses.
Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).
Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.
Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.
To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.
When the heater core leaks and must be repaired or replaced, it is a very difficult and time-consuming job primarily because of the core's location deep within the firewall of the car. For this reason always leak test a replacement heater core before installation.
This is probably the same as it is on the S-10 truck. You'll have to remove the dash to get to the heater core box. Drain the coolant and locate the two hoses on the engine side of the fire wall and remove them. There are large electrical connectors under the dash that have to be unplugged. Remove the large bolts/nuts holding the dash to the frame and drop the steering column to ease removal of the dash. You'll be able to see the heater core box now. Remove the bolts hold it to the firewall and there are also bolts on the engine side of the firewall holding the box in. This is where it gets frustrating. Remove the blower motor resistor that is mounted in the engine bay and inside that hole is another bolt holding the core box in place. With all of the bolts out you can pull the case apart and replace the heater core. Put it all back together and fill the cooling system. Start the vehicle and run the heat on full. Leave the radiator cap off so air can escape. Watch the coolant level and add as needed until the engine reachs normal operating temperature and put the radiator cap back on. The last one of these I did I charged $450 to do plug parts. His next best quote was $950.
Did you run engine from cold, with heater on when you refilled the system? Try again, rad cap off, with heater on, and let engine get up to operating temperature, make sure you have good flow through rad ,leave cap off, until rad fan comes on to cool returning coolant to rad at least twice. Give engine a little extra rev, for 5 seconds or so, every once in a while to make sure flow getting through heater core, and add coolant as necessary. See if that helps, as it may just be an airlock in system. If your cooling system has any bleed screws incorporated, crack them once in a while as well.