I pulled up to a stop light on level ground, and heard a "clunk" (definitely mechanical) from the lower right of the engine compartment. When the light changed, the engine was running, but the car wouldn't move. It shifted, according to the indicator, but nothing happened no forward no backward nothing. What might it be?
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
you will have to replace the half shaft. remove wheel, remove axle nut, separate the lower ball joint pull axle half shaft out of spindle assembly, pull rest of axle out of transmission. install new half shaft in reverse order.
Micpherson strut or independent front. If its the MacPherson strut design of the car on your picture, then clunks on rough pot holed roads or rough dirt. Al's a weird one is a clunk may or may not be heard and /or felt upon first application of breaks. Sometimes noticeable that car travels straight then when brakes applied it suddenly pulls to right or left. If accompanied with a brake squeak then Its a wheel bearing. On independent front suspension all previous symptoms plus one. A ticking sound that is repetative or described as a clicking noise, very faint though. Usually only heard with windows rolled down and driving 20 to 30 mph with a concrete wall next to lane, which echo's the noise to driver but not when in open country, could also be symptoms of control arm bushings. Sway bar bushings only make noise on rough roads. Cabin bushings and all others can usually be visabily checked. If no cracks then its good if small hair line cracks, keep an eye on it, if large cracks and possibly with pieces missing, replace . if its a Chevy replace control arm bushing adjuster bolts. They get grooves wore in them defeating the reason your replacing the bushings as it will still have play, make noise. Etxc. Oh the other symptom is when road tilts to the right side being lower then left then vehicle pulls to right. But if road sloped the other way then pulls that way and usually no pull either way on level ground.. Some pull is natural but too much is bad. Hope it helps. What noise and when does it do it? Where and what are you doing as well as how fast and I could help narrow your possible problems.
I have a 96 ford explorer that has a clunking sound when I pull out slowly . If I engage 4 wheel drive the clunking stops. I have replace the ball joints and right front axil and ground the breaks. Can anyone give me a suggestion. Sounds as if something is binding.
You need to raise the vehicle so that the front tires are off the ground and place on jackstands. Make sure the power steering reservoir is full. With the engine off (not running) turn the steering wheel from stop to stop 2 or 3 times. Recheck the fluid level and add if necessary. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Start the engine and slowly turn from stop to stop 2 or 3 times. Recheck fluid level. If no groaning noise is heard when the engine is running or the steering wheel is turned, and no foam is observed in the reservoir when engine is stopped, then bleeding is complete.
do you have an anual mechanical inspection?? where its put over a pit and inspected ,and on a rolling road brake tester ,shock absorber bouncer thingy?? chassis number checked lights checked obviously not because it sounds like your lower track control arm /strut,ball joint has come apart .Right time is pressing and i have a car to take to the test centre for just such a test.
When the lights flashed the system was telling u a fault has occured in the transfer case engagement actuator, most likely the motor or the mechanism it operates stuck, have you ever serviced the transfer case? I would do so, that will most likely cure the problem.
It sounds like there could be 2 possible problems. 1) the spark plugs might be too old and do not convert power efficiently causing it to shudder or even stall when power needs increase (I suggest a tune-up). Or 2) the timing could be off and needs to be adjusted by a mechanic, while you're at it you might want to see how worn your timing belt is, if it no longer grips it can cause off time explosions in the valve chambers and you'll definitely get some shaking action and even stalling and if it snaps, the car won;t be going anywhere (til the belt it gets replaced).