Car does not start after replacing battery

Check battery, check cables, check connections.

I looked at a ford focus awhile back that had the same problem , relay clicking behind the instrument panel . The relay was the battery saver relay. This vehicles problem was the alternator , but also had other symptoms , lights flickering . The battery saver relay is controlled by the ( GEM ) generic electronic module , fords version of a BCM - body control module , if you know what that is . https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Body_control_module It's not the relay at fault . Some other problem is causing it to click .There may be a DTC - diagnostic trouble code associated to the problem stored in the GEM . I suggest you take this top a ASE certified repair facility .

Parasitic drain on electrical system .
How to Find Parasitic Battery Drain

The relay would have nothing to do with that problem ,You have a short somewhere, take it into a auto electric shop to be check out,

The best way to check for a power drain or a "draw" on the battery is to dis-connect the negative, or "Neg" (-) side battery cable and then connect a test light not a meter, between the "Neg" (-) side battery post and the battery terminal at the end of the battery cable.

With the key removed, all of the doors closed, and no accessories turned on, and also if there is a light under the hood dis-connect it for now. Normally the test light when connected should start off bright and then quickly dim down until the test light is almost not even showing a connection and the filament inside of bulb that is inside of the test light will barely glow and not even light up, this is normal and the only thing that should be drawing power is the KAM (Keep Alive Memory) for any control moudules or accessories that require a KAM. If this is the case then the condition of the battery would be suspected of being at fault and an internal short inside of the battery will not show up as a draw on the battery, and the battery voltage will slowly drop off all by itself with nothing even connected to the battery.

If the test light does not dim down and stays bright, or it will dim down but will also still dully light up the test light, then there is a draw on the battery and if you start removing the fuses until the test light dims down and barely makes the test light filament glow, then you will know what circuit is at fault, but if the light never dims down with all of the fuses removed, the doors are all closed, and no accessories are turned on, then dis-connect the wiring to the alternator and if the test light dims down to almost nothing, then the draw is in the alternator itself.

Common places to find a draw are the vanity lights inside of the sun visors are not turning off or are shorted, the power door lock(s) are faulty, or after-market accessories that are not properly installed, and there is even the possibility that something metal has dropped down into a cigarette lighter or a power point and is making a connection there, such as a watch battery. Also check the wiring for any wires that have been melted together or if they are missing insulation allowing the wires to touch each other or a body ground.

You obviously have a short. I think it may be your starter selinoid or starter relay. It could also be a mercury switch failure in your trunk or under the hood. They turn the lights on & off accordingly under the hoods. Have your starter checked out. Also it could be an ignition switch problem. Check the starter first. Good luck!

possibly your relay got fried or maybe you did the wrong tapping on your battery lead or you probably damaged your alternator IC regulator/ when you jump up another car make sure to do the right connection on your positive and negative lead battery and make sure your car is running to give more power to your battery.

One it could be the battery but if your radio and stuff works then it is not the case, the clicking is your starter trying to turn over, so that could be it as well.

where is the battery relay saver on ford ranger 98 4x4

check the connections at the battery