My gauges and heat dont work on my car and the check engine light comes on
Before the gauges would work when i turn the heat on high, now for some reason the heat stopped working and the gauges dont work. The gauges shoot up when i start it but then go right back down. The check engine light comes on and sometimes the airbag light comes on but about a month ago everything was working just fine so i just dont understand it. I had two mechanics look at it and they said they cant figure out whats wrong with it. If you could help i would greatly appreciate it......Thanks
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Re: my gauges and heat dont work on my car and the check...
This may be related to a loose battery cable or alternator concern, low voltage can cause these concerns as well as an alternator problem, also this could be related to the body control module, Go to a Kragen, Auto Zone and have the battery and alternator tested, it's free, let me know the results.
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Get an oven thermometer, run the car untill the check light goes on, using a multilayer rag slowly open the radiator cap one notch.If if the cap wiggles loose & no steam comes out , you can fully remove it. Put the thermometer into the liquid coolant , if temp is 180 F (+- 20), the problem is electrical. If steam comes out its a cooling system problem. Use commonsense in doing this. Probably the gague is faulty.
CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSES AND RELAYS. CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.MAKE SURE ITS NOT TOO LOW BECAUSE IF COOLANT TOO LOW . BY NO COOLANT AROUND OR COOLANT SENSOR NOT SUBMERGED IN COOLANT COOLING FANS WONT TURN ON.MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 50/50 ANTIFREEZE AND WATER. CHECK FOR CLAPSE RADIATOR HOSES.CHECK RADIATOR HOSE AT WATER PUMP.IF HOSE LOOK CLAPSE REPLACE IT AND BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.IF EVERY THING HAS BEEN DONE YOU NEED ENGINE BLOCK FLUSHED OUT.HEATER CORE ALSO COULD BE STOPPED UP.A VERY HIGH MILEAGE ENGINE WILL OVER HEAT.OLD ENGINE LOSES COMPRESSION AND HORSE POWER.PUTTING MORE LOAD ON THE OLD ENGINE WILL MAKE IT OVER HEAT.IF COOLANT LEVEL IS LOW.BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM.START THE ENGINE LET IT IDLE FEW MINUTES WATCH THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE.WHEN TEMPERATURE START RISING.TURN OFF THE ENGINE LET IT SET FOR 20 MINUTES.TAKE A LARGE RAG PLACE OVER RADIATOR CAP ON COOLANT EXPANSION TANK SLOWLY OPEN RADIATOR CAP JUST A LITTLE TO RELEASE A LITTLE PRESSURE AT A TIME.DONT OPEN CAP RAPIDLY OR YOU WILL GET SCALDED.ONCE THE RADIATOR CAP REMOVED.IF COOLANT LOW ADD MORE COOLANT IN THE THE COOLANT EXPANSION UNTIL YOU GET TO THE COLD MARK.REPEAT THIS PROCEDURE START ENGINE LET IT RUN UNTIL TEMP GAUGE START CLIMBING A BIT DONT LET CAR RUN TO OVER HEAT JUST IDLE UNTIL TEMP JUST START TO RISE.THEN YOU TURN OFF ENGINE. WAIT 20 MINUTES.THEN USE LARGE RAG OPEN RADIATOR CAP LITTLE AT A TIME. DO THIS PROCEDURE UNTIL THE COOLANT IN THE EXPANSION TANK STOP DROPPING. THEN ALL THE AIR IS BLEED OUT THE COOLANT.WHEN COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING, WHEN YOU DRIVE CAR AROUND.AND TURN OFF ENGINE.WHEN ENGINE OFF CAR SET FOR A WHILE KEEP CHECK ON THE COOLANT LEVEL IN COOLANT EXPANSION TANK. THE COOLANT LEVEL SHOULD BE AT THE COLD MARK IN THE EXPANSION TANK.MAKE SURE COOLANT IS IN THE EXPANSION TANK.IF NOT AIR WILL DRAW IN COOLANT SYSTEM. CAUSING ENGINE TO OVER HEAT.IF BLEEDING AIR OUT THE COOLANT SYSTEM DONT HELP AND COOLANT FANS DONT TURN ON YOU HAVE PCM PROBLEMS.
That's a definite possibility. Check if your a/c turns the fan on. If it does then the fan part is ok at idle anyway If the temp goes a little high, that can trigger the check gauges light. When you go faster, the regular air currents cool off the radiator instead of the fan.So you may have something there.