Starter does not engage as it should. I was told the different trans install was done to provide more low end torque ..But knowbody I know knows the trick to get the correct alignment. the problem is in the orbit ot the starter/flywheel spacing. Considering starter housing mod... Or flywheel swap.........money running out ...and I'd really like a nice drive around without breaking down..................Any Help...
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You do not give us any engine specs. There is a four cyl and 2 different 6 cyl options for this car. However, basic troubleshooting should work regardless. Turn on your dome light. Try to start the car. Does the dome light go completely out when trying to start? If so, your battery is weak and the starter cannot engage. If the lamp stays bright, then the starter is the most likely problem.
The replacement starter may have required installation of shims to ensure correct engagement with the flywheel and that wasn't done. Also, the replacement starter could have been a look-alike-but-not-function-alike item.
The 4 cyl starter for manual trans and automatic trans are different so I doubt you could interchange them. You would have to measure the travel distance for the bendix gear and the mounting holes, plus the diameter of the nose to be sure.
Underneath the car, for a front wheel drive, it will be toward the front of the engine a long cylinder shaped part with another cylinder with wires going onto it. take the wires off first, paying close attention to their placement, then you remove the mounting bolts and pull it out, it's that easy dude, you can also find a video on how to do it on youtube.
The starter sit on top I belive on the passenger side above the transmission, have some one hold the key to start while you tap or even hit the starter some time it will crank over if it does replace it, not that big of a job. If it still dont start there a big wire that one comes from the battery and a small one that come from you ignition switch ( key ) jump those two wire's ( if stander transmission make sure you have it out of gear ) there should be voltage at big wire all the time, if it still dont crank over replace starter assembly.Hope this was very helpful.
The flywheel is worn in that specific area. Engines tend to stop in the same one or two positions, and it is those teeth that get cachunked every time you turn the key. This is ok if the bendix does a good job of threading the gear into the flywheel teeth, but the problem is that now that the teeth are half worn away, the starter attempts to mount its gear to the teeth, but before the gear is fully seated, the contacts in the motor make, the motor starts to turn, and the not-yet-seated gear bounces off of the flywheel teeth. This is what causes the teeth-grinding sound (your teeth grinding in your mouth too!) when you turn the key.
There are two solutions: The first is to, of course, replace the ring gear.
The second is hard to explain, but a good starter rebuild center (if there is such an accessible animal around anymore) will know what I'm talking about: The starter gear must have the lagging edge of each tooth ground so that each tooth will look like a chisel. The "pushing" side of each tooth must be straight and come to the point (and not be beveled). The "non-pushing" lagging side of each starter tooth should have the bevel ground in on that side. This grinding is done easily by a small angle grinder or a Dremel Tool with a cutoff wheel.
This does one thing: It assures that the gear will "spin in" without bouncing. If ground correctly (it's not hard to do), you will get successful starts every time. This is a common fix for Toyota 4-cyl with this horrible all-too-common problem. Good luck.
a dropped/disconected starter solenoid cable is a good candidate, a heavy cable runs from the battery to the starter, a lighter cable runs from the ignition to the starter solenoid, the ignition key throws the solenoid which engages the starter pinion gear in the flywheel, and connects the cable to spin the starter motor. even loose may not be producing enoug current to fully engage the starter.
there is a fusible link in the battery cable that is a good candidate.
if the battery were disconnected during alternator changeover, look for loose cables at the battery posts, and corrosion on the posts.
if the battery was not disconnected look for collapsed positive plates on one or more cells of the battery..