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Re: change a rear window on 2005 f350
I changed to a slider in my F-250 some time ago, it wasn't difficult. I purchased an aftermarket slider, it had great directions. On removal be careful not to damage the weatherstripping around the window. I think I'd be tempted to have the quad take out the center and right side, which would probably make removal easier. Pull out (carefully) the weatherstrip from the window, work in some dishwashing liquid soap, it'll come out easier. Also it would be best to do it where it's warm so the rubber will be easier to flex for removal and installation (access to a heated garage?) Installation was a breeze, you put a rope in the opening of the window in the weatherstrip, hold the new window corner up tight , as u pull out the rope, it opens up the seal to allow the new slider to fit right in. I'm a little fuzzy on the removal procedure, but w/ patience, liquid soap, and care, u should be able to remove it. (check the directions that hopefully are included). Let me know how u make out.
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just the element or the whole assembly/
did you even look to see if the rear side is in plain view yet
or do you want us to look.
on most cars, it's this. gain access to HL shell rear (yes, do just look first, then ask)
turn the socket base,(twist lock)
install new lamp and conn.
put it back in its home , reverse of out.
and dont touch the lamp glass as finger oil will make it explode.
Depends on where it leaked at . If you have a slider than can be the seal on it , or if whole back window then you could have a bad seal or a rusty area beside the rubber seal that would need fixed . If neither then a seal is most likely your problem . Some people puts alot of vasaline on them to make them swell to see if it still leaks and others just do a small cut on clear caulking then lift the rubber up and trace around the window and clean up any that sqeezed out but my preferance is to remove the back window and look for rust and fix it right the first time .
Hope this helps... 1990 Ford F350 Factory Radio Wiring Diagram Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Green/Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black
Car Radio Ground Wire: Red or Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Blue/Red
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/White
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Pink/Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Orange
I am having the exact same issue. I replaced my master switch because you would have to hold the driver's window switch and wait for it to kick in. Worked 4.0 for about a week and suddenly no windows work. The lights on the switches work, but when you push on any switch in the truck the window doesn't move, but the lights dim and the heated mirror light illuminates. Both the sunroof and the rear sliding glass both work.
the channel came off the glass you have to take the door panel apart either screws or pop the clips out with a panel tool from parts store about 3.00 and then put the glass back on the channel track,make sure the foam rubber is holding the glass in tight or purchase more rubber,about 3 hour job.