A few days ago clutch was acting funny straightened out by "pumping" the petal. Later the clutch would not release, bled slave cylinder - no air. The petal will not release the clutch and travel down far enough to contact the starting switch. how is the best way to access the clutch pressure plate.
Thanks for any help!!
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Re: Clutch will not release
Remove the gearbox to replace the clutch.this will teach you not to hold it on hills on the clutch but to put handbrake on and neutral.also the same at traffic lights and no boy racer flying starts where accelerator is floored and clutch ridden slowly to get most power to wheels,still its not difficult to change and clutches not that expensive if you do it yourself,garage price around 800 euros
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usually a slipping clutch is a bad clutch the acid test is to remove the slave point car in safe direction , start car in gear, does it slip now? yes, then the clutch is bad. you do this test off road safely.. it can only be 2 things, think about it. 1: bad clutch 99% 2; a seized ,while extended slave.
fill the reservoir for the clutch slave cylinder. No with the engine OFF pump the clutch 25 times. Yes 25 times. Now start the engine and see if it shifts. If it does you need a new slave cylinder, clutch, pressure plate, & throwout bearing as well. Everything is replaced upon dismantling for you do now want to do it again within a few months later. Also have the flywheel machined smooth if its still any good
All clutch master or slave cylinders are bled at the slave. It has a small bleeder valve you can turn with a wrench, to open and close. This is always a 2 person operation. With no pressure on the clutch pedal, the value is opened on the slave. The petal is pushed all the way down and held. The bleeder valve is then closed. Only then is the petal released and allowed to return all the way up. Repeat until you have refilled the reservoir at least once, and the fluid is clear. If there is air in the system, you may see nothing coming out at first, then foam later. You are not done until clear fluid comes out. You can also use your finger on the open bleeder, as a one way valve, to speed up the operation, and to feel the pressure. Careful, because brake fluid in the clutch system can be hard on paint. Won't hurt skin though.
This sounds like a common Audi problem but its usually in early shape A3s and TTs. If you heard a snap, then possibly the pedal has broken where the clutch master cylinder connects to it. In this case you can just replace the pedal but it can be an early sign of a faulty master cylinder. If the pedal is ok, it maybe the master that has failed and needs replacing. Worse cases, the slave cylinder maybe faulty or even the release bearing could be sticking on the input shaft. Bleeding the brakes will not help, the clutch shares the same fluid and reservoir but is on a different hydraulic system. The clutch would need to be bled from the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder on top of the gearbox. This can be difficult without the car on the ramp, but is worth trying before replacing parts. What engine does it have?
Manual transmissions do not slip ie. when the gears mesh, there is no slip unless they strip out and make an awful noise and will not pull henceforth.
You probably still have a slipping clutch plate against the flywheel. You need to adjust the clutch petal linkage shaft to allow the pressure plate to be release from the thrust bearing, ie shorten the shaft length.. If you and most likely you do just have the clutch release slave cylinder that releases the clutch when you apply the petal. You need to bleed the slave cylinder of any excess fluid or air that may have entered the line if you opened it at any point. You need to bleed it as you would a break cylinder and this should fix ya. good luck. good luck