Get a clean jar or bottle fill with brake fluid have a hose that will fit snug on the bleeder screw at least 2 ft long start with the rr open the bleeder screw place the hose over the bleeder then into the jar or bottle filled with the fluid then pump the petle about 10 times then close the bleeder and proceed to the lr then the rf lastly lf if the peddal still feels spongy do it all over again. It would be easier if you had another person around to watch the jar to see if there are any air bubbles coming out if there are no bubbles you are good to go to the next wheel. and make sure the hose is submersed in the fluid otherwise you will **** air back into the system.hope this helps.
Have someone pump the brakes manually inside the car and the start opening the bleeder screw one at a time starting farthest away from the master cylinder. They must pump about 3-4 times and hold then you open the bleeder while they are holding the brakes. May take a few tries before fluid comes out.
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disconnect the front and rear brake lines, undo bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster. Bench bleed the new master and reconnect to booster and reconnect lines. Be very careful when undoing the lines from the master cyclinder as you do not want to damage them. Soak with WD-40 before loosening. Once everything is back in place you will need to bleed all calipers and/or wheel cylinders. Again soak the bleeder screws beforehand with WD-40 as they break off easily.
It sounds like you have air in your brake lines. This is usually caused by a very low brake fluid in the master cyclinder. To fix this problem fill up the master cyclinder with brake fluid and bleed the front wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Keep the master cyclinder topped up with brake fluid. Then bleed the rear wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Don't forget to top up the brake fluid in the master cyclinder.
First of all, fill your brake fluid reservoir to the top. Not the clutch master (I will explain later) Now lift the vehicle in the air or crawl underneath it. This will take 2 people to bleed this properly. Measure the distance between the clutch slave and the nearest brake caliper. Cut a piece of hose this length to go between the caliper and the slave. Put the piece of hose on caliper and the slave, have the second person get inside the truck and pump the brakes. At the exact same time open both bleeders and when the pedal hits the floor close both bleeders (on the caliper and on the slave cylinder) do this until fluid starts escaping out of the clutch master reservoir. What you are doing is back bleeding the clutch from the lowest point to the highest point which is the direction air travels. Repeat the process until you get a pedal out of the clutch. This trick works every time for me, whether it is a bmw, ford or ferrari. Good luck
Try pumping the brakes and bleeding it at the master cyclinder. The air bubbles will eventually work its way up to the master cyclinder, BUT also make sure you keep the master cyclinder toped up on fluid.
Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, leave the cap off, open bleeder on left front wheel cylinder till fluid begins to come out and close the bleeder. Go to the right front and bleed it, this is gravity bleeding and works fine without a helper to pump the pedal, when fluid starts to come out close bleeder. Now go to the right rear and bleed it the same way. Then lastly, the left rear. Bleed it and you should be done and with a good pedal. If you don't have good pedal, you'll need someone to pump and hold the brake down as you bleed each one from the closest to master cylinder around to the farthest from it in sequence. It's the only way to bleed brakes.
did you bleed the system good from air pockets...sometimes you have to remove the brake master cyclinder and bench bleed it to get all the air out...but your problem is to much air in system...start with bench bleeding the master cyclinder first.
Did you bleed the master cylinder before you put it in the vehicle?This usually makes it easier to bleed the entire brake system if this is done before you install the master cylinder.Other wise all you have done is put air in the brake system.The master cylinder kit usually comes with a bleeder kit.This is for bench bleeding the master.Hope this helps.Good luck.
To bleed the brake system open all the bleeders and let the system gravity bleed for @ 1/2 hour ensuring the master stays full. Then close all bleeders and starting furthest from the master (r/r) have someone pump the brakes 2-3 times,hold the pedal down, then open the bleeder,close the bleeder,and repeat untill there are no air bubbles and the brake fluid is running clear .Repeat for all wheels in this order R/R L/R R/F L/F ensuring master cykinder does not run empty. You cannot pump the pedal with a bleeder open you will be sucking air back into the system. Once you finish all wheels repeat to ensure there is no air remaining in system.
Did u bleed the master cylinder before u installed it? If not, you'll have to also bleed the rear brakes. starting w/ the bleeder the farthest away, to next greatest distance,etc til u get to the closest bleeder. If u did bleed the master cyl. before installation, I'm wondering if u did the following: have someone pump the brakes (3 times, don't mash the pedal to the floor, just gentle push no more than half way down 3 times, while holding pedal half way down 3rd pump, open bleeder, when fluid or air slows coming out, close bleeder, and repeat, until only clean fluid flows. And of course, don't let the fluid get too low in the master cyl, or you will **** in air and have to start all over. Let me know how you do. countrycurt0