Question about 2003 Mazda Protege
This is a non-turbo, disks all around model with ABS. The problem is that the brakes randomly appear to have tightened to the point that I get hot rotors, sometimes to the extent of smoking as well as squealing. This has happened on and off with periods of up to a year between instances, since shortly after I purchased the vehicle new. It has happened primarily on the rear brakes regardless of the e-brake tension or the caliper set screws to either wheel, but infact never both at the same time. There is no indication of uneven wear on the pads, and I have assured that the caliper guide pins are reasonably lubricated and boots in good shape. The vehicle now has about 50 k on it and I have recently noticed that the passenger side front brake is often dragging now with accompanying unnecessary rotor heating after a short drive. One idea that I have heard is that the valves associated with the ABS system are misbehaving due to a spring problem or perhaps metal pieces left in the system at mfg. Anybody had and better yet, solved this problem?
Well, since everybody else that jumped in here did not give you proper information, let me try.
Please clarify a few points:
You speak of the rear rotors getting hot, but you do not speak of the pads wearing out.
This leads me to believe that you have an issue with the park brake assembly internals.
I would think that the actual mechanism for the park brake is mis-adjusted, or it is acting upon the the rotor due to a mechanical issue. As I cannot see your problem, all can pose is my best advise. Regarding the front brake dragging, I would think that you have a caliper issue.
I would NOT bleed the brakes, I would NOT suspect the ABS, or any of the "valves", because you did not post an ABS light being on. This is simply a waste of time, and not your issue.
Best advice: Have the rear rotors removed completely. Inspect the actual park brake mechanism.
Repair/replace anyhing that may be bent, or damaged. Readjust the park brake.
Remove the front calipers, and check to see that the pistons slide in with minimal effort. If not, it would eb time to replace the caliper, assuming that the slides and the pins are all clean, and the pads are not seized in the caliper bracket, which can happen, and cause an overheat condition. Please feel free to comment back to me if you desire further info on this issue, I will be quite glad to help you, and i will NOT "Copy & Paste" useless information to you.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
Regarding ABS flushing technnique :-
Flushing the system is not a difficult job. There is equipment for a one-man bleeding job, but the good stuff is expensive and we have reservations about trying to use the low-cost alternatives (hose with a one-way valve, and manual vacuum pump are examples). A simpler, effective approach is to have a helper step on the brake pedal. If you can line up someone, the only equipment you need is:
•Ramps or jack and stands to raise the vehicle a few inches in front and back, so you have access to the bleeder valves. However, it's possible to reach them on some vehicles with the wheels on the ground.
•Piece of clear hose to fit on the bleeder valve.
•Tight-fitting wrench for the bleeder (like a tubing wrench). Don't use an ordinary open-end wrench.
•Spray can of automotive cleaning solvent and a spray can of penetrating oil.
•Turkey baster to draw fluid out of the reservoir. A baster costs under $1, so don't try to clean and reuse one from the kitchen.
•A pint container of brake fluid for an econobox, a quart for a larger car. The brake fluid may be labeled DOT 3 (minimum boiling point of 400 degrees F), DOT 4 (minimum boil of 450 degrees ) or even DOT 5.0 or 5.1 (500 degrees F). Your system contains DOT 3 or DOT 4. These two are fully compatible, so you can mix them without worry, and one of these is what you should use.
If you wanna try all diff. techniques,
To determine faulty Abs -----
ABS Fault Causes
It appears that most failures in the ABS system are caused by problems due to one or more of the four wheel sensors. The sensors are relatively low tech and very simple. They often consist of a coil and magnet which is placed close to a cog tooth wheel attached to the wheel hub. As the road wheel turns, the cog wheel disturbs the magnetic field around the coil, thereby generating current pulses in the coil as the cog teeth go by. The ABS processor counts the pulses and thereby knows the speed of each wheel. It uses the speed of each wheel to detect when the car is braking and which wheels are travelling at the wrong speed and are therefore slipping.
Possible causes of failure
**********TO DETERMINE *********************
16 solenoid valve LH 17 solenoid valve RH 18 solenoid valve rear 19 valve relay 25 speed sensor 35 pump motor 37 stop light switch 39/41 n/s/f sensor 42/43 o/s/f sensor 44/45 n/s/r sensor 46/47 o/s/r sensor 48 supply voltage too low 55 control unit defective
ABS Fault Prevention
I have seen a report saying that you should not force the brake fluid back up into the system when changing brake pads on an ABS car. You should always allow the fluid to drain from the brake fluid nipple on the caliper using a brake fluid draining tool. If the fluid is pushed up into the system there could be dirt and burnt fluid particles pushed up into the ABS valve block. It has also been suggested that when draining, all the fluid should first be removed from the brake fluid top up tank and ensure that any dirt and dust are removed from the bottom of the tank.
Ba bye and take care....Keep smiling :)
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
When wheel slip is detected during a brake application, the ABS
enters antilock mode. During antilock braking, hydraulic pressure in
the individual wheel circuits is controlled to prevent any wheel from
slipping. A separate hydraulic line and specific solenoid valves are
provided for each wheel. The ABS can decrease, hold, or increase
hydraulic pressure to each wheel brake. The ABS cannot, however,
increase hydraulic pressure above the amount which is transmitted by
the master cylinder during braking. During antilock braking, a series
of rapid pulsations is felt in the brake pedal. These pulsations are
caused by the rapid changes in position of the individual solenoid
valves as the hydraulic control module (HCU) responds to wheel speed
sensor inputs and attempts to prevent wheel slip. These pedal
pulsations are present only during antilock braking and stop when
normal braking is resumed or when the vehicle comes to a stop. A
ticking or popping noise may also be heard as the solenoid valves cycle
rapidly. During antilock braking on dry pavement, intermittent chirping
noises may be heard as the tires approach slipping. These noises and
pedal pulsations are considered normal during antilock
operation.Vehicles equipped with ABS may be stopped by applying normal
force to the brake pedal. Brake pedal operation during normal braking
is no different than that of previous non-ABS systems. Maintaining a
constant force on the brake pedal provides the shortest stopping
distance while maintaining vehicle stability.
The instrument panel cluster illuminates the ABS indicator when the following occurs: The electronic brake control module (HCU) detects a malfunction with the antilock brake system. The IPC performs the displays test at the start of each ignition cycle. The indicator illuminates for approximately 3 seconds..
TO bleed the abs system :
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
Bleed the pipes at the side of the calipers, there may be an air lock, also check the brake pads themselves they may have to be replaced and the brake fluid
Check the brake disks too, this maybe because the previous owner may have let them ware down too much damaging them
Posted on Nov 17, 2008
It does sound like a problem with the abs valves or it could also be a there is a valve that keeps a slight ammount of pressure on the breaks after you take your foot off the pedal to keep them from rattling it could be failing and causing to much pressure but i dont remember what its called
Posted on Nov 17, 2008
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