Question about 1987 Toyota Camry
Well i can't tell you how as i can't be sure what the problem is, however if you have a vom avaiable you can figure out what fuses go to what and check them to make sure power is going where it needs to go, fuses are left open on the ends for this purpose, you should have one fuse box inside your car left driverside down by the floor under the dash
Posted on Apr 22, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The Normal Temperature Range to the Fan Start is: A/C ON 181 F.
A/C OFF 199 F. When the Engine Reach this Temperature the Fan should start.
OK. Do this simple test.
1---- Start the engine, Desconnect the ECT Switch located on the Radiator,
See if the Fan come ON. If yes, if not go to step #2
Connect the ECT SWITCH and leave the car Running and with a Temperature gage.
See the temperature, if the Temperature go more than 199 F.
Turn the Engine OFF.
Disconnect the ECT sensor and check for Ground at the WHITE/BLACK wire.
If ground exist, Replace the ECT switch.
But if not. Check the wire for any damaged, and the ground at the Front Left Fender.
Repair as need.
2---- check the Fuse link RDI FAN . 30 amp.
Check the Fuse link CDS FAN 30 amp.
Replace if need.
And Return to step # 1.
Check the Radiator fan Relay, Rad fan relay 2 and 3. Replace if need.
Ok. I hope this help on your question.
I can give to you the WIRING DIAGRAM of the Fans, But I need a E-MAIL adress to do that.
Thank you for use fixya....
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
there are actually 3 temp sensors. 1 is on the top of the engine that goes to temp gauge in dash has 1 wire. next to it is a 3 wire sensor for engine control and choke. on the bottom of the radiator next to the hose is a 2 wire sensor. loosen all 3 but leave connected. get engine hot past halfway point on dash gauge. with ac off disconnect 1 sensor at time. start with 2 wire under radiator. it takes the most abuse. fan will come on when you disconnect broken sensor. 2sensor must agree for fan to stay on till engine cools when turned off. note this is solution i used after verifying fuses, fuseable links and relays worked.WOO HOO! make sure you check both the fuse box under hood and fuse boxleft side of steering wheel my ECU fuse was inside my bros was outside.ECU B on my car goes to nothing and is under hood. Had it confused with ECU on wiring diagram.DOH!
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
Firstly, ensure you have the required 'mixture' of coolant/water (must have required coolant).
Second, I would recommend you re-test all the cooling system sensors again (make sure they're within specifications), in case a new one is faulty.
Third, ensure the new thermostat was of the correct temp setting (they all differ), so that it opens at the required time. Most cooling systems operate within 90 - 100degC.
Fourth, make sure the radiator (and associated hoses) aren't blocked.
If your temp gauge is reading higher than normal, but NOT in the danger zone...then this can be considered normal (especially if you've replaced with new components) and nothing to be concerned about.
However, if the temp gauge IS in the danger zone....then this suggests the coolant is not flowing through the cooling system properly.
If all above components test ok, then it's possible your water pump may not be pumping enough volume.
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
Testimonial: "I appreciate your help...Maybe I should just relace the water pump, that would be the last thing that I would need to replace."
The radiator fan in the 92-95 models of V-6 Toyota and Lexus vehicles is a weird design. The fan is not electric but runs off the power steering pump. The power steering pump moves fluid through hoses to the radiator fan, thereby creating its rotation. A sensor monitors coolant temperature and signals a solenoid on the power steering pump when more or less cooling is needed. The power steering pump then speeds up or slows down to provide more or less fan speed.
This system seems to work pretty well. However, there is a connector that goes to the power steering pump that is critical to proper operation. In engine work this connector often gets overlooked when reassembly is done. This results in the fan running at constant speed and not increasing rotation when more cooling is needed. This becomes a problem primarily when the car is idling or moving at a slow speed.
If your car is not overheating in these situations, the fan is probably operating okay.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
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