Fuse keeps blowing for my tail/instrumnet lights '98 ford escort
Every time I replace the 15A fuse for the tail lights/instument lights they blow imediately when I turn the light on. I know it must be a short but whre? any ideas?... I ahve even truied using only one tail light w/same results.
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Re: fuse keeps blowing for my tail/instrumnet lights '98...
Here is an easy start. Start unplugging things. Start with the tail lights. 1 then the other. Then unplug the instrument lights then maybe the switch itself. after that its gonna be a matter of pulling trim panels to find the culprit (dashes and kick panels are common areas for this to happen). There is also another means too. when you unplug the item in question you can use a Ohmeter and use the black to a known ground then you can start touching wires to see which one has no resistance to ground. then you will need to trace that wire which can be a pain. As you can see this can get progressively worse as time goes on, but be patient and methodical and you'll get it figured out soon enough!
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the power wire is the centre terminal of the lights. If that wire is touching anything like the spring under the terminal that will be the short. Push each wire through the fitting and check for rust /broken springs or bare wire that can touch the earth.
remove your tail light bulbs than put in a new fuse if it does not blow it is a bulb socket put one bulb back in check the fuse if it blows remove bulb. than put bulb in other socket if it doesnt blow with new fuse you will know what socket to replace. if this was helpful please leave feedback
12V power passes through 15A fuse 33 (the one that keeps blowing?) in the battery junction box and on to the main light switch. When the main light switch is set to PARK, 12 volts is routed via the BRN lead to the park filaments of the dual park/turn lamps. These lights remain on when the headlight switch is turned to HEAD.
The main light switch gets its 12V input from 7.5A fuse 11 in the central junction box and the same 15A fuse (33) identified above. When the main light switch is set to PARK, 12 volts is routed via the BRN lead to the instrument panel dimming module and module output is applied to the panel illuminating lamps.These lights remain on when the headlight switch is turned to HEAD.
The input to fuse 33 is hot all the time so should read 12V. If you read 12V at the TAN/WHT connection with the fuse out, something is definitely not right. I'm sure you have noted that the fuse is common to the non-functioning circuits you mentioned.
you have to check all fuses with a test light both fuse boxes under hood and under dash... if good next to look for is the light switch itself... has any radio work been done to the lately... if so alot of times hooked up wrong will blow park fuse as one of the wires to radio is the park voltage to tell radio to dim down some
your lights are grounding out some where you will have to check for a dead short in the wiring use a volt meter in the resitance mode and track through you power side of the lights untill you find your dead short, start at the back and work your way to the fuse box pull the fuse and follow the wire. there is a short in it it will just take some time going through look for worn coating, cracks, or melted.
good luck & and happy hunting
tracing short circuits can be tricky you need a good electrical knowledge and a bit of luck.what items are not working when the fuse has blown? concentrate on these items first follow the wiring back from these loads looking for chafed wires . if you cant see anything
put in a fuse and switch the affected loads on one at a time until the fuse blows when this happens youll know which circuit to concentrate on.
you have a short somewhere, unplug the tail lamps one at a time and see if the fuse still blows. if you disconnect one and the fuse does not blow and everything else works, the problem is in the tail light assembly. if not, the short is most likely in the wiring harness which can be a bit tricky to diagnose. alldata.com/diy offers one year subscriptions to cars with all the repair info and they have excellent wiring schematics. dont forget to try the front marker lamps in addition to the tail lamps.