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NIOSE FROM TRANSFER CASE AREA ON 2004 F-150

WHEN YOU TURN THE WHEEL AND ACCELERATE YOU WILL FELL THE VIBRATION UNDER YOU BY THE TRANSFER CASE AREA. THE NOISE IS NOT THERE IF YOU JACK THE VEHICLE UP AND TRY IT. TRUCK HAS 39,000 MILES ON IT. OILS ARE ALL OK. SHOULD THE TRANSFER CASE BE HOT AFTER YOU RUN DOWN THE ROAD FOR 15 MINUTES? YOU FEEL THE VIBRATON ONLY IF YOU ARE AT A STAND STILL AND TURN AND ACCELERATE.

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5 Suggested Answers

SOURCE: noise & vibration in front end

The ole vibration ford problem. Here is what you should do. Go to the local auto parts store, Advance, Napa, Auto Zone, they all have one and get a for sale sign. The best thing you can do is unload it and do as I did......never buy another one. I head "ford tuff" so I thought I would give it a try. Boy was that a mistake. I don't know how they ever get repeat customers.

Junk Junk Junk Junk. Fix Or Repair Daily- Found On Roadside Dead.

I could go on and on.

Posted on Aug 19, 2008

  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: Ring gear needs to be replaced on the flywheel

I've removed and replaced many,many of those transmissions,as well as the automatic trans version,and the 2 wheel drive version where a "dummy" transfer case is still in place but 2 wheel drive only,but that's another story entirely.The transfer case shifter will interfere with removal making it impossible to remove without breakage.The first technical tip on the hydraulic line disconnect at the transmission is the white plastic.Locate where the hard plastic hydraulic line comes over from the body,to the transmission.The line goes from small to big,and is gold in color.The female receiver socket is the hydraulic slave cylinder.In between the two gold halves that are attached as one is a round,white piece of plastic.This white plastic is plunged,evenly,and gently,into the slave cylinder with either a couple of small pocket screwdrivers,or there is a tool available specifically for this.The transfer case is attached with 5 or 6 bolts that from the factory,took a 13mm socket to remove.The point of the excercise of removing the driveshafts and the transfer case is because reinstallation with everything in place WILL be impossible.There is also an issue with the exhaust head pipe or Y pipe on the V6 version.The EASIEST and LEAST frustrating way to remove is actually MORE work,but in the end you will have to do it anyways.First is to support the transmission with a floor jack or trans jack,then remove the transmission crossmember and mount,13 mm,18mm,and 19 mm bolts,both driveshafts,mark with a marker before removal,to index the driveshafts the same way they came out and prevent any possible vibrations.Disconnect the transfer case shifter,just let it lay there off to the side,or fasten it up out of the way with a bungee cord.Disconnect speedometer,remove transfer case.Some trans fluid can drain out if you haven't drained it already.There is a gasket between the trans and transfer case,and if not replaced,you will have a leak there when reinstalled.Remove the starter and any bolts attached to the engine plate at the front of the trans.The shifter bolts on the transmission can be removed either through the cab of the vehicle which involves removing the rubber shifter boot assembly,then accessing the 3 shifter bolts,they take either a 25 or 27 torx socket,it's been awhile since i've seen a Bornco 2.Some guys leave the torx bolts in place and opt to remove the 18mm nut they see at the shifter stub.The nut can be removed,and then the pin driven out the opposite direction,but this leaves a shifter stub,about 3 inches tall that also interferes with removal and installation.I just remove the 3 torx bolts from under the truck with a tool i've made,and leave the shifter and boot hanging in the trans tunnel..After all that it is time to remove the bellhousing bolts,which are 13mm head.I believe 6 of them.Trans should slide out now.Check crankshaft endplay as part of your inspection procedure.The crankshaft thrust bearing is more prone to wear on a manual trans vehicle.It isnt hard to do,and requires a relatively long pry bar.You can hook your pry bar in between the flywheel and engine oil pan,and GENTLY pry the flywheel backwards.Now remove pry bar,place pry bar in between flywheel and the floor pan,or the transmission tunnel,and pry the flywheel back,give it a quick firm shove,towards the front of the vehicle.Acceptable endplay of the crankshaft is minimum .006" to maximum .015" and unacceptable of around .020"and up.Endplay can be checked with a magnetic base,or clamp base,dial indicator.After the endplay check,remove the flywheel to visually inspect the ring gear.Look for stripped teeth,or teeth that are missing or damaged in any way.I have replaced many a Ford,GM and Jeep and others,flywheel ring gears.An oxy/acetylene torch is required to remove and reinstall a new ring gear.Set the torch on medium to hot heat,place the flywheel on a steel workbench,ring gear up,and start contacting the ring gear with the flame,and keep the torch moving in a circular direction until the ring gear has heated up low glowing red or barely red.Knock off the old ring gear with a hammer and punch.Reinstallation is directly the opposite.You can also opt for a new flywheel,with a new ring gear,or good used if you can find it.Good luck.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

  • 187 Answers

SOURCE: Rear differential / axle noise and vibration.

A drive shaft that has lost a balancing weight will vibrate between 40 and 50 mph. If not corrected this could damage the input shaft bearing and seal on the differential causing oil leakage. Differentials are fairly indestructible but if run without oil will fail.
As for the front end you should never run the 4wd on dry pavement. The front differential is a posi traction unit that will turn both wheels at the same rate unlike the rear diff that will allow the inner wheel to turn slower than the outer on turns.

Posted on May 08, 2009

carlsbiz
  • 1124 Answers

SOURCE: F150 2003 5.4L Vibration throughout truck with acceleration

When you say "throughout" that would indicate that it is coming from the rear of the truck..

There could be a number things causing this..

It could be a bad tire or a broken belt on a tire..
A test for this is - roll along at 3 miles per hour.. If you feel a wobble - that is probably a broken belt in a tire..
Or maybe even a bent axle..

It could be a bad universal in the drive shaft..

It could be a broken shock/strut or mount or both..

Best of luck !

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

sscullys
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2004 ford f-150 off road 5.4 liter. My

If this is a 2004 Heritage ( old body style ) and the transfer case is known to lock in ( check with truck jacked up, shift into 4WD and try to turn front drive shaft ), the next item to look at is the vacuum disconnect motor for the front axle. This is on the front axle, and will move when shifted into 4WD
3b8c336.jpg


It is item #10, on this parts diagram
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If you do not have movement in this, check the vacuum lines with a vacuum pressure gauge, to see if vacuum is being applied ( Pink line is 2WD w/ vacuum is operation, Blue line is 4WD w/ vacuum operation ). If no vacuum at the lines, check them back to the vacuum shift solenoids
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Posted on Jan 04, 2010

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