1995 olds 88 positive battery cable stuck together
Had to jump the car. Went to replace the battery and couldn't get the positvie side loose. I actually broke the battery getting it apart. Now I can't get the bolt to seperate from the positive cables. Got the battery out. Got the battery insides off the positive cable. Does the bolt come apart from the positive cable or is it a part of the entire cable.
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Re: 1995 olds 88 positive battery cable stuck together
Normally the bolt that tightens the clamp that fits down over the positive post of the battery can be removed from the cable. What happens on older cars is the bolt get all fouled up and corroded. This happened recently to me on my 94 F150. What I did was to cut the bolt in the middle with a hacksaw, then went to the auto parts store and bought a new bolt & nut for the cable and installed it. They even have packages of 2 nuts and bolts right near where the batteries are sold.
Hope this helps Good luck Loringh PS Please leave a rating if appropriate Thks
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pull on the sepentine belt and make sure its secured. if not that could be the problem because its not allowing everytime to time correctly causing it to have all sorts of problems. tighten down that pulley or have it replaced. start there
I'm not sure if the Aurora is a special type of car that requires a different way of jumping, but when u jump start most cars, you place the red end of the jumper cables on the positive/ red side of the battery and the black end on the negative. You want to make sure the jumper clamps are touching the metal part of the battery post (so if there's covers on the battery posts, move them so the cables have good connection. The same procedure is used on both cars. Be careful not to touch the end of the cables together, as doing so will make them spark if one end is connected to the running vehicle. Let your car charge a minute then try to start. If it starts, let it charge for 5-10 minutes and run/ drive your car after disconnecting to make sure the battery does not die the next time you shut it off. If it does not start after a few minutes of charging, adjust the clamps to make sure they have a good connection, wait 2-5 minutes longer & try to start your car again. *It is normal to hear the car that is jumping you idle more quietly when your car starts pulling juice from the charged battery. Also, remove jumper cables after charging, making sure not to touch the ends togther- as it will spark again. *it is not necessary to shut off the car that's jumping you before attatching the cables, or after charging. If your car still doesn't start after repeatedly adjusting cables and trying other cables to see if it is the cables not working, you may need a new battery or alternator. I would have the battery tested to see if you need a new battery before considerring the altinator.
You said you tightened the battery cables, did you check the other end of the negative where it bolts to the engine. When you tightened the cables you also used a battery brush and cleaned the posts and ends?
Sounds like a dead cell/shorted battery. 3 years is a little soon but with the fact that you recently replaced the alternator, I would suspect that your battery is done! Even a weak battery will let you jump one, bad cables usually will let you jump one, but a shorted/bad celll in a battery will prevent them from taking a jump. good luck
The 1995 Olds 88 has an obd 2 plug, but is an obd 1 system. Some people call it obd 1.5 There is no option to jump 2 contacts to flash the codes on the check engine light in these cars. You will either need a compatible scan tool, or a cable to hook to a laptop and the software to pull the codes. (check out www.aldlcable.com) One such scan tool is the Actron CP9185. It has the extra data pin for the 8192 baud communication with the computer in these cars. (pin 9 on the OBD 2 connector)
the 12 amp is for a jump start and the 2 amp is for a trickle charge which doesn't degrade the battery. i believe you have a loose connection either a loose ground cable or the positive cable to the starter check these and tighten if neccessary
I have a 96 Chevy Lumina with an electric sliding side door. A few weeks ago we started having problems with it. I went to work and when I got ready to leave it would not start. I had to have it jumped. Got home and let it set over the Thanksgiving weekend. Went to start it the Mon/Tues after and nothing. Let it set another week and still nothing. We jumped it again and it took 15 minutes to get enough of a charge in the battery to get it started. Took it to a battery store and they checked the battery and said that was the problem. We replaced the battery (it wasn't that old) and went home. A few days later it wouldn't start again. Could this problem have anything to do with the electric slinding door? if so, any suggetions on how to fix it?