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Hi, Yes you have an air lock in your system, you may get this sorted by 1/. Removing one of the cooling hoses & try to blow with air.
2/. Drain all the system then put your heater on inside the vehicle & have the engine running & refill the system Start to do this from a cold engine. Please leave me feed back: Malcolm Campbell, Thanks.
Water inside the vehicle can only be from a few causes, it is very likely that it is not from the AC since that drain, (condensation from evaporator, takes place outside the vehicle) usually from the location you describe it is more likely that it involves the heating core, (hot water from the engine is circulated through this unit when a valve is open to provide heat to the interior of the vehicle.
during the summer most of the time this valve is not open but closed, leaving an amount of water up to several quarts of water, (over time the heater core can become damaged and begin to leak often inside the vehicle.
Open the hood and look down between the rad and the engine and on the large a/c line is the low side port right close to the exhaust manifold so you can burn your hand easily.DO NOT add Freon to this system.It requires 134a refrigerant only.Be aware of aftermarket "refrigerants" with a EXPLOSIVE sticker or label on them.They are usually a mix of butane and/or propane.You may not want these products in your a/c system because in a collision situation where your vehicle interior a/c components become damaged/ruptured,a vehicle interior fire may not be a good thing for you at that time.
Make sure the reservoir coolant tank is at 'full'. Start the car from cold and observe. After a couple of minutes when the engine has begun to drop in revs ( the coolant temperature sensor should tell the ECU to begin to shorten the injection cycle as the engine warms) the top of the engine and the coolant passage to the thermostat housing should become warm to the touch. When hot the top rubber hose to the radiator should become warm and then hot as coolant begins to circulate. If the top hose fails to get hot at any time then the thermostat is at fault. If you have electrically driven radiator fans these should now come on. If they fail to come an at all you need to check the coolant temperature sensor, the electrical motor fuses and the motor relay. Lastly check the motor itself (just run a 12v supply to it directly). As the ar continues to idle, with the fans running, the bottom return hose from the radiator to engine should also become warm. If the bottom hose fails to become warm this points to circulation problems. Either the radiator had become clogged with rust sludge and needs an extensive flushing out with a high pressure hose or the pump is not functioning as it should. Quickly check that the interior heater works by asking for 'full heat with fan on full'. If the interior heater works this indicates that the main coolant pump is probably OK.
To check the thermostat more thoroughly, remove it from the car and drop it in a pan of near boiling water; the 'stat should pop open. As the pan cools, at 88 degree centigrade or so, the 'stat should pop closed. Failure to observe this tells you the 'stat is a dead and needs to be renewed.
Refill the coolant system reservoir when cold. Ensure the cap has a good seal and is tightened down properly With the hood raised, restart and allow the engine to idle until running temperature.
1) No agitation should be seen in the reservoir water, certainly no stream of bubbles or violent movement. If there are violent signs then this points to a blown head gasket.
2) The top rubber hose from the engine to the radiator at some point should become hot. Keeping checking the temperature gauge from time to time to see if the temperature is rising. If there is no temperature gauge response then there is something wrong with the gauge circuitry.
3) at some point here the fan (if electric or clutch operated should become engaged. If the electric fan never comes on either the temperature sensor is faulty, the fan fuse or solenoid relay are not functional or the fan motor is blown.
4) Within a few more minutes the lower hose exiting from radiator to the engine should also become hot. If these two events happen then your pump is circulating the water and the thermostat is functioning.If the top hose does not become hot you need to check your thermostat. If the top hose does become hot but the bottom one does not, even after quite a while, then either the pump is a fault or there is blockage; maybe due to sludge in the radiator core or pipes.
To check the thermostat simply remove it and drop it into a pan of boiling water. Immediately you should see the thermostat pop open. Take the pan of water off the heat and watch the thermostat. After about five minutes when the water has begum to cool the thermostat should pop closed again. These events are not subtle so if they are not seen it is likely that a new thermostat will be needed.
In the event the system is blocked simply remove coolant hoses and use a high pressure hose to flush the radiator and system clear of sludge.
If there is air trapped in the system try putting the interior heater on to full to help flush them out. In an emergency putting on the interior heater can assist the main engine cooling.
This sounds like a valve problem, or a heater/ cool air door stuck. Many GM vehicles, have under the hood, a valve, it is electronic or vacuum controlled. When you switch the lever to heat, this valve opens, thus letting hot water flow through to the heater core. On some newer models, there is a door (flap so to speak) within the interior compartment. This flap opens and closes between heater core and interior, thus controlling hot air flow. Have you check to insure there is sufficient coolant in the system? Low coolant levels will also cause no heat, but will also show signs of engine running warmer, sometimes much warmer than it should. The valve under hood was as used on my 1995 Astro van. the mechanism looked to work as you could see shaft move in and out, problem was the diaphram or flap in valve on end of shaft (inside valve and not visible) was detached. The other method, interior door or flab within heater box assembly was a problem on my 1998 Ford Expedition. Yours, being GM, I would check for this valve under hood. It will be somewhat obvious in most cases as it will have heater tubes running into it and from it into firewall.
Q: Temp starts to climb by how much? If the vehicle interior is hot"over 90" , keep in mind the heat in the vehicle is being absorbed by the a/c and carrued out to the "condensor" in front of the engine radiator. Engine temp should be expected to climb somewhat. As the interior cools down the less heat is taken to the font and forced through the engine radiator. It should peak out ,then staer deopping or stabilize. On initial entry of vehicle on hot days it would help to open the windows for a mile or so to purge excessive heat from passenger compartmentw/AC OFF. OUTSIDE CAN BE 90 AND THE INTERIOR OF A CLOSED UP VEHICLE CAN CLIMB TO 120 DEGREES + mID 80'S IS HANDLED WITH GREATER EASE FOR A COMBINATION OF TECHNICAL REASONS OF WHICH WOULD BORE YOU.It sounds like all is well so be cool(pun) and don't waist money chasing a ghost. Happy trails. Oh, The auxillary fan is good to speeds up to 35 mph. Above 35 the forced air from the vehcle speed does the fans job.
yup, its running to that point before it dripps off. you can bypass the heater core to stop the leaking, but you won't have heat. take the two heater core hoses ( two hoses connected at the fire wall on passenger side) and connect them together. you will need a fitting to connect them with.