I JUST BOUGHT A 1985 GLH AND THE SELLER SAYS THAT THE WATER PUMP HOUSING HAS CRACKED TWICE. OF COURSE THIS IS APPARENTLY NOT AN AUTO ZONE REPLACEMENT PART AND IS A PICK-A-PART PIECE. IS THIS A PROBLEM WITH THE CAR OR A PROBLEM WITH THE PREVIOUS OWNER?
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When replacing a water pump, it is necessary to drain the cooling system.
Any components--belts, fan, fan shroud, shaft spacers, or viscous drive clutch--should be removed to make the pump accessible. Some pumps are attached to the cylinder block as shown below.
Installing a water pump. Courtesy of Dana Corporation.
Loosen and remove the bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center outward.
Insert a rag into the block opening and scrape off any remains of the old gasket.
When working on the coolant system (for example, replacing the water pump or thermostat), a certain amount of coolant will spill on the floor. The antifreeze in the coolant causes it to be very slippery. Always immediately wipe up any coolant that spills to reduce or eliminate the chance of injury.
When replacing a water pump, always follow the procedures recommended by the manufacturer.
Most often a coating of good waterproof sealer should be applied to a new gasket before it is placed into position on the water pump.
Coat the other side of the gasket with sealer, and position the pump against the engine block until it is properly seated.
Install the mounting bolts and tighten them evenly in a staggered sequence to the torque specifications with a torque wrench. Careless tightening could cause the pump housing to crack. Check the pump to make sure it rotates freely.
The water pumps on many late-model OHC engines are driven by the engine's timing belt. When replacing the water pump on these engines, always replace the timing
CAUTION If the radiator is filled to the top with coolant and the engine is run without the radiator cap in place, the coolant will expand and spill over as the engine warms up.
Drain some coolant into a clean container until the coolant level is below the thermostat housing.
Remove the upper radiator hose connection from the thermostat housing.
Loosen the housing bolts and remove the housing.
Remove the gasket and scrape it carefully from the surface of the housing and the mounting surface on the engine. If the gasket remains on either of the surfaces, there will probably bea coolant leak after reassembly. Some engines use a rubber O-ring to seal a thermostat housing.
Compare the size of the thermostat to the old one. They are of different sizes, types, and temperature ratings.
The temperature rating is stamped on the sensing bulb on the bottom of the thermostat. The temperature bulb faces the block.
When replacing a thermostat, be sure that the thermostat fits into the groove in the block or outlet housing. If the thermostat is installed upside down, the engine will overheat.
Install the gasket.
Reinstall the thermostat housing. Refill the system and run the engine or pressure test to check for leaks.
When the engine has reached operating temperature make sure the thermostat opens.
You should be able to see coolant circulating within the radiator.
Another way of checking thermostat operation is to feel the top of the radiator hose or use a thermometer or multimeter with a temperature probe to confirm that the coolant is warming up.
If the engine is overheating, but the top hose is still cool to the touch, the thermostat is stuck closed and must be replaced.
When a paper gasket is used and the recess is in the thermostat housing, it is a good practice to position the thermostat into the recess and glue the gasket to hold it in place. If it falls out of its groove during installation, the outlet housing can be cracked or a coolant leak will result. Before tightening the water outlet housing, try to rock it back and forth to be sure it is flush. Housings are often cracked during this step. belt.
Make sure all pulleys and gears are aligned according to specifications when installing the belt.
Take off the plastic cover located near the top of the radiator if present.
Remove the protective shield located on top of the belt pulling the water pump. You will need to undo two 10mm nuts and one 10mm bolt.
Undo the 10mm nut that holds water pump housing togeter with the oil dipstick.
Take off the air intake assembly.
Move the PCM computer to one side, ensure that the module is safely placed.
Release the belt tensioner using a big flat screwdriver.
Remove the serpentine belt from the water pump pulley
Remove the upper radiator hose. This is held by a metal clamp. Use plyers to remove the clamp.
Remove also the clamp from the thermostat housing bypass hose, without removing the hose (you have to bleed coolant first).
Unscrew the four 10mm bolts that hold the water pump housing and letcoolant drain from water pump plug. At this point you can also removethe lower radiator hose to drain faster.
After coolant drains remove the water pump housing.
At this point you have to use a special Water Pump removal tool onwater pump cand turn clockwise until the pump is sliding off thehousing.
Remove the pump and the o-ring located inside the water pump housing.
Clean and grease the area, put a new o-ring and install back water pump housing
Install the new water pump using the special tool and following operations in reverse order.
You may need to use sealant tabs from a Cadillac or GM dealer. Here is what you need. Better going to your local dealer to get the best product for yourCadillac. You will also need a 3/8'' ratchet, socket and extensions
Youmay also need to replace the housing cover gasket. You will need toreplace the O-Ring, that usually comes with the new pump. When installing new pump you must also ensure that the new pump is aligned correctly,one of the tabs on the pump housing is different and will lock up the pump, so it must bealigned properly while installing.