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I recently purchased a 2008 BT50 dual cab then 2 days later we had 500mm of rain and of course it leaked :( I had about 80mm of water on the drivers side floor and 30mm on the passenger side floor. I stripped the interior out of the car and started hosing the outside and watching where it was coming in. I took all the windscreen surrounds off and the cowl panel off below the screen there was no water coming in from that area. I had taken the gutter seals off but left the door seals on so the water was running down around the outside of the seals (with the door shut) and out at the bottom. From inside near the drivers side kick panel I could see water coming through seams in the metal work and when I took the door seal rubber off the body on the car I could see water was getting in at the top of the door seal rubber going down the front inside edge of the rubber and getting in through the seam where the rubber push's onto the body of the car (first problem). I took all the door seal rubbers off and run a bead of non corrosive silicon inside the cavity and pushed them back on. It seemed to have fixed the problem I dried the carpet and put it back together..Two weeks later we got another 325mm of rain and it leaked again :( not near as bad this time. Looking at the bottom of the door where the door trim meets the door I could see water coming from behind the trim and then into the car. I took the door trims off and could see water gets in when the window is up (all cars do) and is supposed to run out the drain holes in the bottom of the door but the water was dripping and splashing up to the back side of the door trim against the sheet of plastic that is supposed to seal against the door with the black mastic (it doesn't) and running straight into the car. I cut some plastic and siliconed them onto each opening on the inside of the door frame and then put the factory piece of plastic on as well (properley this time) as a backup. So far so good.
Crossing the lines would not cause a leak. i think you need to take a good look at the lines and see if its the connection to the radiator or a rusted line or bad hose, some of theses came with the trany lines being all rubber hose from ****** to radiator and some were rubber and then change to metal tubing , anyway it doesnt matter which you have but i will bet its leaking from the lines , it may be the line itself or the connection at the radiator, clean the area with some engine cleaner and rinse off then run the engine and watch where the leak comes from, maybe the line just needs tightening. good day.
probably trans cooler lines if it looks like its coming from radiator area probably will haft to replace hole radiator there one of the same check lines closely they run close to each other have been know to rub holes in them very likley if it is line leaking cut bad piece out use a good rubber line to replace use two clamps on both ends of rubber line good luck hope this helps
The '97 Jeep does not have a hose. It goes into the frame. If you lay on your back by the passenger side door you will see an oval hole. Stink a coat hanger through that hole and water will gush out. Also in the passenger side floor board towards the firewall there is a black plastic part, the bottom portion is round. Drill a hole in the dead center of the round part and water will flow out. Stick a long piece of stiff wire in it, blow it out with air and do the same from the bottom of the frame as mentioned earlier. It will flow out nice at first but will probably clog up again. I cut a piece of coat hanger and left it in the bottom portion, put electric tape over the hole in the dash and when I see it is not flowing - check frequently I shake the wire from underneath and it flows again. After owning a jeep for 6 months I have concluded that jeep engineers are stupid careless people.
Either you have loose connections for Transmission cooler in rad, or your tranny cooler in the rad is defective. First, check the transmission lines and connections to the rad. If they are tight you'll have to either replace the rad or put an exterior tranny cooler on your car.
No it is not difficult to replace a radiator it can be done with basic handtools I would not suggest a used radiator, if at all possible spend a little extra now and buy one with the best warranty (lifetime) available although with a new one you are looking at approx $250 plus coolant. Here is the proper procedure for replacment Grand Cherokee
See Figures 9, 10 and 11
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Open the radiator valve and drain the cooling system.
Remove the fan and shroud assembly.
Fig. 9: Radiator and condenser mounting
If equipped, disconnect the automatic transmission cooling line quick-fit connections.
Matchmark the upper radiator crossmember and adjust the crossmember to the left or right.
Fig. 10: Radiator upper crossmember assembly
Eight clips are used to retain a rubber seal to the body. Gently pry up the outboard clips (2 per side) until the rubber seal can be removed. Do not remove the seals entirely. Fold back the seal on both sides to access the grille opening reinforcement mounting bolts and remove the bolts.
Remove the grille.
Remove the upper brace bolt from each of the 2 radiator braces.
Remove the crossmember-to-radiator mounting nuts.
Working through the grille opening, remove the lower bracket bolt securing the lower part of the hood latch or hood latch cable from the crossmember.
Lift the crossmember straight up and position it aside.
If equipped with A/C, remove the 2 A/C condenser-to-radiator mounting bolts which also retain the side mounted rubber air seals.
If not equipped with A/C, remove the bolts retaining the side mounted rubber air seals compressed between the radiator and crossmember.
Note the location of the air seals. To prevent overheating, they must be installed in their original position.
Disconnect the coolant reservoir/overflow tank hose from the radiator.
Disconnect the upper hose from the radiator.
Carefully lift the radiator a slight amount and disconnect the lower hose from the radiator.
Lift the radiator up and out of the engine compartment, take care not to scrape the fins or disturb the A/C condenser if equipped.
If equipped with an auxiliary automatic transmission oil cooler, use caution during radiator removal. The oil cooler lines are routed through a rubber air seal on the left side of the radiator. Do not cut or tear this seal. To install: Fig. 11: Radiator alignment dowels
Lower the radiator into the vehicle. Guide the alignment dowels into the hoses in the rubber air seals and then through the A/C support brackets, if equipped. Continue to guide the radiator through the rubber grommets located in the lower crossmember.
If equipped with A/C, the L-shaped brackets, located on the bottom of the condenser, must be positioned between the bottom of the rubber air seals and top of rubber grommets.
Connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator.
Connect the upper radiator hose to the radiator.
If equipped with A/C, install the bolts condenser-to-radiator mounting bolts.
If not equipped with A/C, install the rubber air seal retaining bolts.
Connect the reservoir/overflow tank hose to the radiator.
If the radiator-to-upper crossmember rubber insulators were removed, install them.
Install the hood latch support bracket-to-lower frame crossmember bolt.
Install the bolts securing the upper radiator crossmember to the body.
Install the radiator-to-upper crossmember nuts.
Install a bolt to each upper radiator brace.
Install the grille.
Position the rubber seal and push down on the clips until seated.
If equipped, connect the transmission cooling lines.
Install the fan shroud with the fan.
Install the fan and shroud.
Rotate the fan blades and ensure they do not interfere with the shroud and at least 1 inch (25mm) of clearance is allowed. Correct as necessary.