I had this same problem and also heard the relays clicking. This was due to a poor connection to the battery. I tightend cables at the battery and solved the issue. NO problem since. This also happend about three weeks after I changed my battery,
First thing I would try is checking the actual battery voltage. Most batteries should be roughly 12.5 if new when sitting at idle. If the lights dim and relays click this is normally a sign of a weak/bad battery connection or possibly a discharged battery. If the battery has good voltage, and the lights continue to dim I would suspect checking the primary wire going to the starter with a 12 volt test light. You will want to check the smaller wire going to the starter and have someone turn the ignition to start. You should have 12 volts there. If you have 12 volts and the starter does nothing I would suspect a faulty starter at this point.
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Is the security light blinking? It could be a bad map sensor, fuel pump, or ignition cylinder. Do you here the fuel pump for a few seconds when you turn the key to run? You could find the fuel pump relay under the hood, note the direction of the numbers on top, remove it and look on the side of the relay for the pin diagram. Then use a wire to jump pins 87 and 30. Then take the gas cap off and listen for the fuel pump. If you hear it, start the truck. If not, either you jumped the wrong wires or the fuel pump is bad. Good luck!
First I would look for voltage drop of both end of battery terminal.not a look or seem tight . you have to do it (voltage drop) and terminal at alternator. now does alternator charging. take voltage of battery if the problem occur have voltage of battery taken like I read your problem it looks like wiring terminal ground and positive the noise you hear is probably low voltage to a relay and the dropping voltage make the relay switch inside relay cycling noise click or buzz
Yes it could be your starter the fact that you hear the click tells you that the starter solenoid is in fact working. Do check your connections for looseness or corrosion prior to starter replacement and fix as needed. Possibly has a dead spot on the starter that won't allow starter motor to turn even though the solenoid engages.
There are several possible issues depending on what you have happening such as - is it cranking over or not. Ford used their wonderful passive security systems on these years of vehicles which can be a real pain. If you use a test light and are getting power to the starter switch (small wire on starter solenoid) when friend turns key to start but it is still not turning over then starter is not functioning. If your interior lights and dash lights all work when key is turned to on but everything goes off when you turn key to "start" position try cleaning battery terminals. If terminals clean or even better if terminals clean and you jump with jump box or jumper cables and it still not cranking check with test light as mentioned above and if no power to start switch check relay in underhood fuse box. Swap the "starter" one with one from fan or other of same size and see if starter will now turn. If you can turn the key on and hear the fuel pump turn on (buzz or whine from rear) and the engine cranks over trying to start but will not - it may be the passive security system. The chip in key or the reader for it may have died. Each key is $75+ and if you do not have two good keys they (Ford Dealer) will charge you for making two keys and activation fees - Total $300 - plus getting the vehicle towed in. The vehicles computer tests many sensors before letting vehicle actually start so it is normal for it to crank for a few seconds before it actually fires. If it senses something wrong in that first few turns like no crank or cam sensor reading it will not allow vehicle to start. You can read codes with a code reader for this by testing with key on and not running.
When the engine dies do the accessories such as radio, lights, heater all die along with the engine; or do they keep running as they were prior to the stall?
If they all quit together (as if the key was shut off) I would check the electrical part of the ignition switch or the battery cables and connections (check both ends of cables and little ground wire near battery that connects to car body). The ignition switches are a well known culprit in the s10's.
If the radio and lights keep running after the stall, I would look at the crank position sensor, ignition coils etc.
IF WHEN YOU TURN YOUR KEY TO START YOUR DASH LIGHTS DIM AND HEAR A CLICKIN NOISE YOUR BATTERY IS LOW,IF NOT THOUGH AND THEY STAY BRIGHT AND NO CRANKING THE STARTER SOLENOID IS MALFUNCTIONING OR ITS ELECTRIC CONTACT IS CORRODED OR YOUR KEY SWITCH IS BAD.
OK ! before replacing the fuel pump , check for the FUEL PUMP RELAY , usually located under hood where the MAIN fuses are , youre gonna need a multimeter to check for voltage where the RELAY sits , hope this helps , good luck AJ
Check fuel flter at fuel pick-up intank (looks like a small wire sock). Remove fuel filter and fitting at fuel rail. Blow out fuel lines w/about 35lbs air press. Ck electrical @ relay - should be 4 connectors - one is key on hot/one is always hot/one is ground and last is hot to fuel pump. Good Luck