I have had new brakes put on and rotors and when I go to push down on the brakes they go all the way down to the floor and they still don't stop I have had the brakes bled and they still aren't working what can be the problem
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Try adding brake fluid to the reservoir that should put the light to rest if not when have you had the brakes serviced last, if you start to hear a metal rubbing noise waste no time to get the brakes serviced chances are you need pads or shoes.. Every 25,000 to 30,000 miles should have them inspected other wise you risk rotor or drum damage if the pads or shoes wear down too far.. hope this helps..
ABS is short for anti-lock braking system. This is a separate system from your hydraulic brakes. The abs light means the system has a problem and it is disabled until you fix it. The regular brakes still work as you know. Someone needs to scan the computer for ABS trouble codes and go from there.
did you replace the pads only or the pads and rotors.either way if you pushed the calipers back without opening the bleeder screws its possible that you may have push some debris into the abs system causing the system not to work when it went through its test.you can try to bleed the brake system to flush out the debris.flush the 4 wheels until the brake fluid is clean and not discolored.don`t let the master cylinder run low of brake fluid.this may fix the problem.if you replaced the rotors make sure that you received rotors for an abs system as i have gotten some that the abs ring was missing from the factory.look on the back of the rotors to see if you can see the ring.it will be attached to the rotor and has teeth on it.you should be able to do this without pulling the rotors off.if there is no ring then you received the wrong rotors or defective rotors.also make sure the abs sensors at the rings is there and not bent or damaged from replacing the brakes and that the wire plug connector is connected and not damaged.if this checks out good then you should have the code pulled to see what direction it sends you to diagnose the problem as it could be a sensor that has stopped working.
checked out replace pads /and cut rotors if pads are glazed over [film u were told ] the pads are smoothed over from getting to hot -riding brake or stop and go traffic lot of down hill braking which ever was the cause ur brakes got over heated and glazed over and are very smooth also the heat transferred to the rotors also warped them when u get steering shake when braking 90 percent of the time its warpage in rotor and the only way is to have them removed and put on a cutter to check for out of round also abs doesnt cause this abs [anti-lock braking] is designed to transmit a pulse to ur brakes when it senses a wheel is about to lock up or skid u would feel the pulse in ur brake pedal not ur steering
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
Sounds like two issue. The ABS unit might need replacement (known issue for ABS lights on) and the brakes need to be quality parts (ATE, Brembo, Girling, etc.) , not discount auto or pep boy type brakes. Those don't stop well. If the pedal travel is excessive, bleed the brake system first. If its still excessive, its most likely the master cylinder, not the booster (booster will make the pedal hard).