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Re: drive train f-150
Do u have it in 4x4 on dry pavement? If that's the case, u should use 4x4 mode only in snow, off road, etc. The 'problem' is that all 4 wheels are trying to rotate the same revolutions , and the 2 wheels on the inside of the turn have a shorter distance to travel. This usually results in a sort of lurching feel as the truck goes forward, sort of like it's being held back. Does this sound like what's going on? If it does, just avoid sharp turns on dry pavement when in 4x4. Let me know if this does not help.
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Most 4WD systems are designed to be shifted in and out "on the fly". It is less stressful for the drive train doing it while in park however. 4WD does not like cornering - especially on "grippy" surfaces such as dry asphalt (why would you need 4WD on dry asphalt, anyway?). Dry asphalt is really tough on 4WD as the the tires may have minute differences in circumference as a result of wear and since all are spinning at the exact speed (even going straight ahead), those difference add up and strain the drive train. Slippery surfaces allow the tires to slip away those differences as soon as they begin to appear. Even wet pavement allows this to happen, tho not as easily as grass, dirt, snow or ice.
Drive in a tight, complete circle on dirt and you'll see that there's a shorter path of tracks for the inside tires than those on the outside. Yet, the 4WD locks all wheels to turn the same amount. The jerking during the cornering that you're feeling is the inside tires trying to spin to "catch up" to turning at the same rate as the outer tires. See the video linked below.
Check your manual and you'll likely be cautioned against running 4WD on dry pavement for these reasons.
unless you are absolutely sure that it is not in 4wd --what you describe is the effect of 4wd on hard surface where there is a torque wind up in the drive train system trying to drive all wheels and not allowing a diff action to work
If you are engaging 4wd on paved road, the powertrain or drive train will bind and cause a "bunny hop" condition. It is usually worse when making turns. Make sure you never engage the 4wd on hard dry surfaces, you will damage it.
Is this a manual 4 wheel drive system that can be shifted into 2 wheel drive? These type of systems should be in 2 wheel drive for tight turns. The drive train locks the differentials to make it 4 wheel drive and with the 4x4 engaged it creates this lunge grabbing effect.
If you are engaging your 4 WD at over 55, that in itself may be a problem. Driving over 50 in 4wd may not be a good idea and almost impossible if you are in 4wd Low. You will be straining the rpm limits in 4 wd Low - and everything else in your drive train. It will also be a strain in 4wd High to a lesser extent. (I am assuming you are talking MPH)
4wd auto: you can shift into this mode at anytime. it is good for conditions where you might need 4wd.
4wdhi:: you can shift into this at speeds up to 30mph and both of these back to 2wd while in gear.
4wd lo : stop vehicle and shift truck into nuetral ok to be rolling around 3mph shift into 4lo then put in gear same when shifting back to 2wd
Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground. Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft. If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case. If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.
If the system is a true shift on the fly you will be able to shift in 4WD while driving in forward gear, shifting in to 4WD high only. To shift in to 4WD low you should stop the truck and place it in to park or neutral. Also as you shift in to 4wd (or out of) try to do in a neutral state with the drive train, meaning not when you are accelerating or under heavy load. Make the shift when you are more or less cruising. PLease remember true 4WD should not be run on clear concrete or asphalt as the system must be allowed to slip. If you traveling on a snow covered road or such be certain to shift back to 2WD when on clear roads to avoid drive train damage.
I hope this may have helped,
It sounds like your CV joints, on the outsides of the front axles, are binding up. You might end up having to replace them. A small piece of advise, drive about a mile or so once a month in 4WD, that will help prevent this from happening again.