Question about 2003 Ford Windstar

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Oxygen sensor will it cause the '03 van to start surging/jumping when at a stop light. Check engine light is on. is it something you can fix yourself?

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  • thejones Nov 14, 2008

    I also have a check engine light on reading the oxygen sensors are giving slow response. Now have started the surging problem as well. What is the reason for this?

  • clare426 Jan 02, 2009

    my ford windstar 2003 is doing the surging at stop lights when it is cold and now the check engine light is on.  i think it is surging because it is trying not to stall.  i am taking it in tomorrow

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No it wont cause it surg or jump
you might be able to fix it yourself but you need to get the codes

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

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Chevy 1 ton van 5.7 v8


Both front oxygen sensors can fail at the same time

If you replace the front or upstream sensors at 100,000
miles, if they haven't failed sooner, your doing preventative
maintenance,so add that to the list

After that they slow down & you don't have the proper control
over the fuel trim & your vehicle is not as sharp in response to
your gas pedal request

The chugging is something you need to look into

The O2 Sensors are not causing that,you got things
that need attention,spark plugs,air filter,clean maf sensor
& check out ignition issues,worn out exhaust converter
causing a partially blocked exhaust system

Mar 19, 2014 | 1997 Chevrolet C/K 3500

Tip

Which Oxygen Sensor Is It?


There are many inquiries online about which oxygen sensor to change. Oxygen sensor failure codes are very common on a lot of vehicles. With all of today's vehicles having at least two oxygen sensors and many having three or four of them, it can be a little confusing as to which one is causing the problem.

Before we get into which sensor is which, we need to have a little discussion about oxygen sensor fault codes. There are several different types of oxygen sensor fault codes. Here are just some of the most common ones:

P0135 "Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Bank1 Sensor 1"
P0141 "Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2"
P0147 "Oxygen Sensor Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 3"
P0152 "Oxygen Sensor Voltage High Bank 2 Sensor 1"
P0159 "Oxygen Sensor Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 2"
P0171 "Oxygen Sensor Lean Sensor 1 Bank 1"
P0172 "Oxygen Sensor Lean Sensor 1 Bank 2"
P0174 "Oxygen Sensor Rich Sensor 1 Bank 1"
P0175 "Oxygen Sensor Rich Sensor 1 Bank 2"

There are many more possible oxygen sensor codes, but I only listed these to make my point. Many times the oxygen sensor code is NOT caused by the oxygen sensor itself. "Lean" or "Rich" oxygen sensor codes (i.e. P0171, P0174) are usually caused by something other than the oxygen sensor. Something is wrong, causing the engine to run lean (not enough fuel or too much air) or causing the engine to run rich (too much fuel or not enough air). In these cases, replacing the oxygen sensor will not fix a thing. (That is, unless you are trying to fix your bank account from having too high of a balance!) The new oxygen sensor will just set the same code as the original one. This is because the oxygen sensor is not CAUSING the problem, it is only REPORTING the problem.

High voltage codes (like P0152 above) can be caused by the oxygen sensor wires being shorted to another wire inside the wiring harness. Sometimes these codes are caused by bad grounds where some other component is trying to ground through the oxygen sensor circuit. Again, replacing the oxygen sensor will not fix this! In short, the problem needs to be diagnosed before running out and buying an oxygen sensor.

Just because a fault code has "Oxygen Sensor" or "O2 Sensor" or "O2S" in its description does not necessarily mean that an oxygen sensor needs to be replaced. Many do-it-yourselfers believe that all there is to fixing the car is to hook it to the "magic box", collect the fault codes and replace the parts the computer tells you to replace. There is nothing further from the truth.

Fault codes only point you toward which SYSTEM is failing. The system must be diagnosed to find the CAUSE of the failure. If this is not done properly, it will only result in wasting a bunch of your money. This is what you were trying to avoid by doing it yourself!

So, after reading all of the above, if you think you still want to replace an oxygen sensor, but don't know which one; here is how to figure it out:

Oxygen sensors are always numbered like this:

Bank 1 Sensor 1
Bank 2 Sensor 1
Bank 1 Sensor 2
Bank 2 Sensor 2

Some manufacturers use a kind of shorthand that reads different, but means the same thing:

Sensor 1/1 or O2s 1/1
Sensor 2/1 or O2s 2/1
Sensor 1/2 or O2s 1/2
Sensor 2/2 or O2s 2/2

Bank 1 is always the side of the engine where cylinder #1 is located and, of course, Bank 2 is the opposite side.
On a 4 cylinder engine, there is only one bank and it is always referred to as Bank 1. The exception to the 4 cylinder rule is on certain 4 cylinder engines (specifically, some Toyotas) there are two catalytic converters used. In this case, Bank 1 sensors will still be in the pipe for the catalyst that is connected to cylinder #1 and Bank 2 sensors will be in the other one.

Sensor 1 is always the "upstream" sensor (the one located BEFORE the catalytic converter).
Sensor 2 is always the "downstream" sensor (the one that is located AFTER the catalytic converter).
Sensor 3 refers to the ONLY "downstream" sensor where there are two sensors before the catalyst and only one after the catalyst. On very few vehicles the reference to this reads "Bank 1 Sensor 3".

If you do not know where cylinder #1 is, then you need to get a diagram of the firing order for your engine. Just post a question on FixYa.com and make sure you give the YEAR, MAKE, MODEL, and ENGINE SIZE of your vehicle and one or more of our experts will be happy to tell you how to find cylinder #1.

- DTTECH
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician


Also check out this article by dttech: What Else Could Be Wrong?

on Apr 29, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What does the mass air flow sensor look like?


The mass air flow sensor works in conjunction with the oxygen sensor & the engine control system. While the oxygen sensor...--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CARPROG FULL

Dec 18, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you know if your spark plugs are the problem?


bad spark plug or bad wire will cause one cylinder not fire cause engine to surge.but change spark plugs and wires, if engine still surge have fuel filter changed, check fuel pressure weak fuel pump will cause engine surge.if you see check engine light flashing code scan for faulty TPS SENSOR OR FAULTY FUEL INJECTOR OR BAD IGNITION COIL.FAULT IN THE PCM.

Sep 23, 2012 | 1996 Buick Skylark

1 Answer

Hi my 2005 chevy express van shuts off after the temp gauge jumps up and down. its not over heating. its just the gauge is malfunctioning and shutting off the engine. how can i fix it.


I doubt it is the gauge. The most likely problem is the Temp sensor sending faulty signals tot eh ECU which is causing your gauge to jump and it activates your engine safety shutoff to stop engine fires and such. Check the wires for breaks and shorts and replace the temp sensor.

Dec 29, 2010 | 2005 Chevrolet Express

1 Answer

Where is the EGR pressuure sensor at. Need to replace it.


Ford Taurus SES 3.0 L 6-cylinder
EGR valve are directly behind the intake manifold.

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I listen from Taurus owners that just had the same problem (EGR insufficient and EGR excessive) and they replaced the EGR valve and the 4 oxygen sensors (if you do this use Ford sensors). This didn't fix the problem; then changed the Vacuum Regulator Solenoid and a tube mounted sensor part numbers F63Z-9J459-AA, and 4U7Z-9J460-AA. this fixed my check engine light and code issues, as well as it stopped idling so high that it caused the trans to jump into gear. It sometimes jumped so hard that he thought he had a broken motor mount.

Good luck (remember rated this).

May 27, 2010 | 2000 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

2001 ford e-250 4.2 engine engine idle surges when idling,sometime engine stalls. codes come up MAF and oxygen sensors are bad. Do all these parts need to be replaced? van has 130,000 miles


Listen before you spend the money try a simple thing first. At our shop we start with the EGR solenoid, locate it, remove it, make sure that the ports are clear. Carbon build can cause your symptoms

Dec 15, 2009 | Ford E-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Check engine light on. stalling & surging. had tune-up recently. seems to be not getting enough fuel.


vaccum leak or faulty sensor could be the problem. If you have the check engine code. that would help so much. along the lines of not getting enough fuel....maybe....maybe not, check the fuel pressure, if its fine, something else.... realy need the engine code. oh, could also be the oxygen sensor, if its fouled up that would cause the engine to surge and stall. BUT if the check engine light is on, you need to find out what code it is. you can manualy look this up using your owners manual, it will give you specific instruction on how to extract the code out of the computer.

good luck

Sep 27, 2009 | 1997 Mazda MPV

1 Answer

Engine check light stays on???


many auto parts stores will plug a code reader into your car for free to determine what is causing the indicator light to go on. call auto zone and ask. then go there with a pen and some paper and write down whatever code comes out (something like p105 or something) it is probably an oxygen sensor or some other thing... if you want to fix it yourself, they probably sell the part you need, at least you will know what the car's computer thinks is wrong...

May 16, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Blazer

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