Question about Mitsubishi Outlander
If your pedal is dropping to the floor and not returning. I may have a solution.
Your car is equipped with a hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinder. These release the clutch pressure plate to allow for shifting gears. If either or both are leaking then hydraulic pressure naturally can't be transmitted to the clutch release fork.
1st: Check your clutch master cylinder reservoir. It is located beside the brake booster. Is it low on fluid?(Takes DOT3 brake fluid) If so, you can investigate further by removing the mounting nuts and looking at the area where the piston rod(the rod that connects inside the car to the clutch pedal) enters the unit.
2nd: If all's well there, you should check for leakage at the slave cylinder, mounted on the side of the trans. This is easily enough identified, as it will have steel tubing connecting it to the clutch master cyl. You may see fluid leaking from the cylinder, or if you pull the rubber housing boot off there may be fluid collected within.
3rd: If any of these conditions are present, naturally parts replacement is the best solution.
Now my professional recommendation is that, if these conditions exist in either component, you should replace both with NEW parts(not scrap yard parts). The reason for that is, typically if one of the two goes bad the other is going to fail very soon, or has failed at the same time. The internal tolerances of these cylinders are pretty tight, if you over extend the pistons within, beyond the range of normal use, the unit has been damaged.
If you choose to replace these yourself, you should be able to purchase these components readily aftermarket, and installation isn't all that hard. You'll need a metric socket set to remove mounting hardware, A metric (believe to be 10mm) line wrench or a box end wrench will suffice to remove hydraulic lines. You'll have to disconnect the clutch pedal from the master cyl. rod under the dash. You'll need the ability to raise and support the vehicle properly enough to access the slave cylinder on the trans. Once the actual parts have been replaced, you'll have to bleed the system of air. This part usually works best with a helper. You can start by opening the bleeder orifice on the slave cyl.. After filling the master cyl. with clean DOT3, allow fluid to run down and out the bleeder orifice. Close the orifice, check fluid level. Have your assistant depress the clutch pedal fully. Open the bleeder to allow air to escape and then close it. Repeat this process till no air, but only clear (no bubbles) fluid comes out. Remember to close the bleeder BEFORE your assistant releases the pedal. When you have clear fluid check for proper clutch disengagment and gear shifting.
I hope this info helps.
Posted on Nov 14, 2008
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 27, 2013 | 2005 Ford Focus
Mar 27, 2012 | 1991 Mercury Topaz 4 Door
Sep 25, 2010 | 1994 Nissan Pickup
Aug 14, 2010 | 1996 Isuzu Rodeo
Feb 04, 2010 | 1995 Volkswagen Jetta
Dec 24, 2009 | Mazda 323 Cars & Trucks
Mar 15, 2009 | 1998 Suzuki Sidekick
Oct 18, 2008 | 1995 Nissan 240SX
Sep 20, 2008 | Renault 18I Cars & Trucks
299 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: