Question about 2003 Ford Mustang

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Exhaust Manifolds and Synchronizer & Sensor

I have a consistent sound when I start and drive my Ford Mustang 2003 convertible. I had the belt replaced, but it didn't fix the problem. I was told at a dealership that the cause of the sound is Exhaust manifolds & synchronizer & sensor. I was quoted $1800 for fixing.

The question I have is how long I can drive with above problems (if that is the cause of the sound) and can I get the job done for cheaper somewhere else

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  • tatiana_delo Nov 13, 2008

    Thank you very much for your reply. I forgot to mention that they told me that not fixing the problem will potentually cause stalling and engine problems.

  • tatiana_delo Nov 13, 2008

    I believe that it's camshaft position sensor. I think that the problems that they mentioned to me are additional problems and I am not sure how urgently I have to take care of them

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  • Ford Master
  • 61,203 Answers

You can drive the car nearly forever with these noise concerns, the trans noise which is the synchronizer ring may cause an issue in the long run, I have no clue what sensor they are talking about, but sensors don't make any noise, they are electronic parts.

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 13, 2008

    That (the stalling concern) must be related to the sensor they want to replace, but has nothing to do with any rattle, I am a Ford dealer tech, so I know what is what, which sensor is it?

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 14, 2008

    The cam sensor can throw a code now and then and the engine will run fine, I would not be to concerned about this sensor.

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However, the following lists the par, though for before or after the catalytic converter:

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Good luck on this repair.

Exhaust Manifold

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2.4L Engine


  1. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Negative battery cable

    CAUTION
    Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative
    battery cable is disconnected to prevent possible deployment of the air bag.


  2. Heat cowl from the exhaust manifold
  3. Aspirator valve assembly, if equipped
  4. Oil dipstick and guide
  5. Oxygen (O2S) sensor connector and ground cable, if equipped
  6. Exhaust pipe from the manifold
  7. Exhaust manifold and gasket from the engine
    To install:

  8. Install or connect the following:

    • Exhaust manifold. Torque the M8 mounting nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) and the
      M10 mounting bolts 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). starting from the middle and working
      outward.
    • O2S sensor connector and ground cable, if equipped
    • Exhaust pipe to the manifold. Torque the nuts to 35ft. (49 Nm).
    • Aspirator valve assembly, if removed
    • Heat cowl to the exhaust manifold. Torque the bolts to 117 inch lbs. (13
      Nm).
    • Negative battery cable

  9. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.


3.0L and 3.5L Engines


  1. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Negative battery cable
    • Exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds
    • Oil dipstick, guide and O-ring
    • Heat shields
    • Exhaust manifolds

  2. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. Inspect the manifolds for cracks,
    flatness and/or damage.
    To install:

  3. Install or connect the following:

    • New gasket and exhaust manifold. Torque the nuts to 33 ft. lbs. (44 Nm) on
      3.0L engines and 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm) on 3.5L engines.
    • Heat shield, Torque the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
    • Exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifolds. Torque the nuts to 35ft. (49 Nm).
    • Oil dipstick, guide and new O-ring
    • Negative battery cable

  4. Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks.


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