Question about 1992 Toyota Pickup

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The brake lines ruptured above the gas tank, i replaced them..

After bleeding all wheels several times the rear brakes work but only when the pedal is to the floor, pumping helps some but the front brakes don't seem to be working... any suggestions?
1992 toyota 4x4

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  • jim146 Nov 13, 2008

    no, i did not bleed the "load sensing proportioning valve" the rear brakes work, although at very low pedal... the front brakes do not.... i guess i have figure out how to bleed the LSPV..

    the rear brakes were adjusted before hand.


  • chrisbrutout Dec 03, 2008

    i have a 92, 2wd 22re, 2.4 motor and i replaced master cylinder and started to bleed the system and now i have no pedal at all and i no front brakes....fluid at the rear but none at front....i keep hearing lspv....but it is just a portion i dont think this is my problem......any air in the system wil cause loose pedal...but i cant even get fluid?????

  • chrisbrutout Dec 03, 2008

    just did an overhaul to my 92 pickup and i think its my power booster but not sure

  • Anonymous May 08, 2009

    My pressure out of the rear calipers is not even close to that of the front calipers while bleeding the brakes. Do I need to do anything with the load sensing proportioning valve?

    Thanks, Mark

  • automech1959 May 08, 2009

    I'm bleeding my brakes and I have very little pressure while bleeding the rear brakes. Do I need to do anything with the load sensing proportioning valve?



  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    2 questions:

    1) Did you bleed the "load sensing proportioning valve" under the bed/over the rear axle?

    2.) Are your rear brake shoes adjusted properly?

    Please advise. Thnaks.

  • Anonymous Mar 16, 2014

    not good brake pedal on first push after bleeding several times

  • Dan W
    Dan W Jan 03, 2018

    I'm having this exact same problem. Pedal goes to the floor and then works but it grabs sharp when it does. We bled the master and all four wheels. Wondering if it's the LSPV or the master. The brakes do eventually work so that makes me think it's not the master.



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Bleed the master cylinder and then rebleed the brakes. If you are still getting a spongy pedal after this then your master cylinder is bad.
Please rate this and let me know if this solved your problem.

Posted on Feb 11, 2009


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1 Answer

No brake fluid reaching rear brakes

Your problem could be several things #1 Are you bleeding the brakes properly , start at passenger side rear wheel. Have someone t sit in drivers seat Have them push brake pedal down ,open bleeder.,close bleeder ,have them let brake pedal up . push pedal down again ,you open bleeder again than close bleeder,have brake pedal up continue doing this until a stream of brake fluid without air comes out.( never pump the brake pedal while bleeding) if this is not working after 30 or more cycles you may need to replace your master cylinder. if this was helpful please leave goodback

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I have a 2004 Land cruiser and changed the right rear brake cyl and brake shoes . What is the proper procedure to bleed the rear brake system. Thank you for your help.

  1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
  2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
    2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
    3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
    4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.

  3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
  4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
  5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
  6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
  7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
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My 1997 chevy 1500 z71 brakes suddenly going all the way to the floor. Checked brake fluid and it was low. Could be wheel cylinder? Master cylinder? or ?

well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.
  1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
  2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
  3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
  4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
  5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

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Brake fluid is not going thru on new calipers. got new calipers from napa not dealer.

did u bleed the brakes ? there could be an air bubble causing blockage

Sep 29, 2010 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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How do you bleed the breaks pumping them dont work

Bleeding brake lines requires 2 people. If you are sure your problem is air in the brake lines then you need to bleed the air out. First step is to be sure the brake fluid reservoir is full of fluid. Then crawl under the car starting at the right rear tire. There is a small fitting that is near where the brake line enters the back of the wheel assembly. You will need a wrench to fit this fitting. Have someone in the car to pump the brake pedal three times and the last time hold the pedal down firmly. At that point you will loosen the fitting at the wheel and brake fluid will spray from the fitting. If there is air in the lines, it will make a popping sound when it escapes with the brake fluid. The person in the car should hold the brake pedal down until you tighten the fitting back. If they let up on the pedal before you tighten the fitting it will draw air back into the lines. If no air pops out, you may have to repeat the process several times per wheel. Move to the other rear wheel, repeat then to the right wheel, then the left front wheel. During the bleeding process, be sure to keep the brake fluid reservoir full of brake fluid. Obviously, don't get the fluid into your eyes, mouth or nose. Also it can cause rashes and reddening of the skin so you may want to wear rubber gloves. It will leave an oily stain if you let it flow onto your driveway or garage floor, so keep them covered during bleeding.

Sep 20, 2010 | 2003 Volkswagen Passat

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I am working on a 2004 dodge caravan with a soft brake problem.i have replaced the rear shoes and adjusted rear brakes,also replaced front rotors and pads.i have also replaced the master cylinder.after...

try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines first as it indicates that there is still air in the pistons
loosen one line at a time and gently apply the brakes until any air bubbles come out tighten the line before releasing the brake pedal
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Brake problem spongy brake pedal pedal goes down replaced front pads and master cylinder and wheel cylinder and bleed lines

try bleeding them more,start with the right rear,then left rear,then right front ,then left front, always bleed the brake that is furthest from the master cylinder, sometimes you have to bleed them several times until you get a steady stream of brake fluid.

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1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 2002 toyota sienna

Here is the procedure from the service manual. I would add just one thing. Do each wheel in this order

  1. right rear wheel
  2. left rear wheel
  3. right front wheel
  4. left front wheel

HINT: If any work is done on the brake system or if air in the brake lines is suspected, bleed the air from the system.

NOTICE: Do not let brake fluid remain on a painted surface. Wash it off immediately.


b)BLEED MASTER CYLINDER HINT: If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.

c)Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder. SST 09023-00100 Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.

Block off the outlet plug with your finger and release the brake pedal.
Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.


1. Connect the vinyl tube to the caliper or wheel cylinder bleeder plug.
2. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
3. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal. Torque: (Bleeder plug) Front brake caliper
: 8.3 Nm (85 kgf-cm, 74 inch lbs.) Rear wheel cylinder: 8.5 Nm (87 kgf-cm, 75 inch lbs.)
4. Repeat (b) and (c) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
5. Repeat the above procedure to bleed the air out of the brake line for each wheel.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL IN RESERVOIR Check the fluid level and add fluid if necessary. Fluid: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT3

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1 Answer

Our kia amanti's breaks build up and stop the car, then when we use a wrench and blead the line under the hood the breaks start working normally again.

do you mean that you pump the brakes to build up pressure in order to stop?

bleeding brakes requires you to bleed them from each wheel starting at the right rear. procede as follows: have someone sit in the drivers seat. have them pump the brakes slowly and forceably to build up pressure. maintain force on the pedal. starting at the right rear, open the bleed screw slowly. the pedal will go to the floor and the fluid will drain. hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the bleed screw. repeat this procedure several times until you are sure there is no air in the line. follow these steps at each wheel- left rear, right front, left front. keep reservoir filled with fluid. fill after each wheel. (note) get a length of rubber hose that fits snuggly over the end of the bleed screw
and drain fluid into a container.

i think you were draining the anti-lock brake system. in which, case follow the steps above for that also.

Feb 25, 2010 | 2005 Kia Amanti

2 Answers

Brake problem

Hi rkoontz!

ABSOLUTELY! Have you bled the brake lines since the replacement? If not, bleed the fronts first, with a helper pumping the pedal repeatedly to build pressure, then hold the pedal firmly down while you open the bleeder valve on each front wheel to release captured air mixed with fluid. A section of clear tubing sized to snugly fit over the bleeder valve nipple will allow you to see the air bubbles being released, and will show you when you are getting the bubble-free stream of fluid that you want.
***IMPORTANT*** DO NOT LET UP ON PEDAL until the bleeder valve has been closed --- otherwie air will be sucked back into the system through the bleeder valve if the pedal is released while the bleeder is open... Start on the side where you replaced the front line... make sure the reservoir does not run low on fluid, or you'll end up pumping air back into the lines. Bleed each side twice, alternating sides. You should start getting pedal (i.e.: pedal quits going all the way to floor.) after this. Now go to the rears. Start at the block where the long line from the master cylinder to the rears splits into left and right. With the pedal pumped up and held firmly down, loosen the long line fitting at this block enough to allow fluid and air to escape. Keep repeating until you get steady fluid with no air at the block and then move on to the wheel bleeders, doing each side twice, like the fronts. You should have good solid pedal by now, provided the brakes are close to proper adjustment. The rears are self-adjusting, and (provided the self-adjusters are working properly) you induce self-adjustment by reversing to moderate speed and then firmly braking. Repeat as necessary until the pedal comes up to normal height. If the self-adjusters have failed, you can adjust the shoes the old fashioned way, levering the starwheels behind the backing plates with a brake adjuster tool. ALWAYS keep an eye on the fluid reservoir, and ALWAYS replace the reservoir cover after each top-off (eliminates brake fluid baths of the engine compartment). For good measure, bleed each wheel one more time, top off the reservoir, and you're done!!!

If you cannot get pedal after doing the above, you probably need a replacement master cylinder.

Hope this helps you solve your problem, and do not hesitate to ask if you have further questions or wish to post a comment. And please be so kind as to rate my assitance!

Good luck!

Jun 19, 2008 | 1983 Oldsmobile Delta 88

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