I had the same problem in my truck. Replaced the starter relay (not a solenoid in my truck, and that makes a difference) on a guess and it was fine- then a month later turned had the same problem. Arced out when I tried to jump it. Turned out to be the battery, even though it wasn't old and registered fine voltage. I had been rear-ended and I guess there was a loose plate on the bottom inside of my batttery that sometimes shifted and caused an intermittent live short. Everyone told me it was the alternator or voltage regulator, I never bothered with those after following the book. Get a Haynes electrical manual to trouble shoot, it's the bomb! Been fine for almost a year now- never would have guessed if I hadn't followed the steps in that book.
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Open hood and look at left side of engine compartment. Find the braid jumper going from engine block to fender. Grab hold and wiggle. It may be loose from corrosion at the fender end. If possible tighten. If not replace with a new heavy jumper from block to body of car. This a major design flaw since battery charging current and starter current is forced through this skimpy wire and connection. I replaced battery and alternator twice before discovering this defect.
Even a new battery will go dead if the car is running on the battery instead of the alternator. Check alternator output. First charge the battery up. Then check voltage with a meter from Harbor Freight ($3). Should be 12.5. The start engine and rev it up. Should go over 14. But also clean and grease battery terminals, alternator terminals, and check engine ground strap.
If there is no power from battery to altenator, than the altenator is bad. Even some new ones can do that. Do check all your battery cable wires including ground wires. Make sure they are all clean. also tight.
I would change all three. alittle expensive, but on this old of a vehicle I would not waste time and trouble. if this doesnt work then maybe some ignition problems. But i would guess that battery, starter, alternator, should do the trick
I would first have the alternator checked by an auto electrician to ensure it is working correctly and is providing the correct volume of current. It may be faulty and when driving you will be drawing battery power instead of power from the alternator to run the electrics. This will drain the battery.
Alternators do not last forever and if you are still running the original unit it is likely to be on it's last legs and you will need a replacement unit.
starter wont click because there's not enough "juice" to turn it over. this isnt because of the battery as you have just replaced it. it is due to a bad alternator recharging the battery as you drive. if it were only a fuse it would be the solenoid in the starter. but if it had started after you installed the battery then its not the solenoid. solution: buy a refurbished alternator and