Question about 1997 Infiniti.5 J30

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Infiniti I 30 will not start

Infiniti I 30 .. replaced stater, now fuse @ 59 (15a) blows when pos termal is hooked up to batt. Removed starter hook ups from starter, fuse continues to blow no matter what.

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I am assuming the fuse was not an issue before replacing the starter. You probably pinched a wire with the starter when you installed it. Take the starter back out and inspect the wiring harness, also see if the fuse blows when the starter is removed.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

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My 1997 Infiniti I 30 will not start because of the 7.5A starter sig fuse and the other2 fuses parallel are not receiving power


Oh. This is different. You'll need to check the fuse panel then. Not the ignition switch. Start calling around for a replacement panel. Junk yard most likely. If you find one, then take yours out and take it apart. You might be able to fix it. If not, get the other. Look for corrosion.

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I have a 2001 BMW 740i and everytime we install the main fuse and turn the key it blows. We looked for shorts or loose wires and found nothing.


Could be grounding out at the starter (bad starter solenoid) Unhook the POS. (large red wire) at the starter and try turning key, see if it blows again. If not, replace starter. I assume you have the battery polarity hooked up correctly? (Red cable to POS on battery, black cable to NEG) Other than that, I would keep looking for a dead short somewhere. Mike

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Did you just hook this up or was it working before? First batt voltage should not drop below 9.6v under load/cranking, second thing comes too mind is if your running a ballast resistor and where you have pos. wire for point less ignition-before or after ballast resistor alot of pointless ignitions want you to get the power before resistor so the ignition module has enough voltage to work with. also you can check voltage at coil during cranking to see- you need to be above about 7 volts or so. Also little known fact, if you have stater sol. on firewall/fender and you have second small terminal labeled "I" if you connect this directly to coil pos. it will apply full batt to coil during start only-by passing resistor.

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First thing every morn. I have to jump it off at the starter. won't work at battery. after 1st start, it will start fine all day. Battery checks out fine. It's like the power does not get to the starter...


It sounds like possible bad batt cable or connection as it takes a bit more batt power when engine is cold to crank engine. if you have a volt meter, you can check this. set to volts dc and put one lead on batt neg. post and one on engine block, crank engine, in theroy you should not see any voltage but if you do, that is whats lost in neg cable, in my exp. you will see about .5 volts if you see too much more than that, i would be looking at cable. you can do same thing on pos. side but keep in mind if you go from batt pos. to large stater pos. at stater and you have a ext. sol. like ford likes to use that your loss could be in the sol. contact as well. And under cranking mode your batt should drop to no less that 9.6 volts under load and thats tested at batt post.

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check the battery termals to see if that are corrosion free and very tight, thats first thing,check the alternator make sure it is putting out, while running remove the pos. battery termal to see if it stays running, if it stops, the alternator is not putting out, hope this helps you, thanks robert b.

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