Hard starting and fuel pressure around 50 psi sometimes slow to get there

I have replaced countless distributprs for this issue. also fuel pressure has to be abovr 50 psi or will not start needs 50 pdi to open poppit valves on injectors. also if the spiders ruptured will be to much fuel and won't start hook up fuel gauge turn key on till reaches max psi turn the key off shouldn't loose more tham 15-20 psi if it does suspect spiders leaking.

Ignition control module in distributor cap

You need to do a test on the electronic engine control system for fault codes and check the fuel pressure. To do the fault code test and see the code definitions go here. The single biggest issues with this year are the ignition module on the distributor and the distributor pickup coil inside the distributor..

That could be because some distributers have pickup coil and ignition modual in them and some dont......hope this helps

bet on the module,if it's tfi it's on the side of the dist.85 could be either way,may be the older fender mounted module.
If it's dist. mounted Ford recomends replacing the pick up coil also. There is a wire with a plug on the tfi's ,you remove the "cap" to set the timing,just 2 wires with a gray cap on the end.Maybe that's the wire you mentioned.

Hi sugriva 108,

I saw your comment on one of my other posts;
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t12417950-93_s10_2_8_just_shut_off_woulnt_start?eventid=21761548

yes, if you have battery power at the injector, but when you check for "pulse" from the computer on the ground side of the injector and the test light does not blink, the most common problem is a failed distributor module.
The pick-up coil in the distributor can cause the same symptom. It is the pickup coil that the injector and spark control signals originate from it is connected directly to the distributor module. The module is what sends the signal to the ecm for fuel control and timing advance and also pulses the ignition coil. Some people call the distributor module the "ignition control module". However, it affects fuel as well as ignition, which is why I refer to it as simply the "distributor module".

If the module is bad, you can replace only the distributor module. If the pickup coil is bad, you will either have to disassemble the entire distributor to replace the coil (the hard way) or you can simply buy a remanufactured distributor. It is less expensive to replace only the coil, but the coils usually go bad as a result of worn distributor bushings and it is usually more trouble than it is worth by the time you get everything right.

If you have lots of time to work with me and do some electrical testing, I can help you determine if it is the module or the coil. However, if you just want to get your vehicle running as fast as possible, the easiest and quickest way is to go ahead and get a remanufactured distributor and be done with it. They are not real expensive. AutoZone lists the distributor for your vehicle for under $100 (click link below)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Cardone-Reman-Distributor/1993-Chevrolet-S10-P-U-2WD/_/N-izmhuZ93xku?itemIdentifier=765107_0_0_

I saw what you replaced, didn't see any testing? Any applicable trouble codes? Use a gage and check proper fuel pressure, TBI--9--13 psi. As an example, 5 psi fuel pressure makes a nice looking injector spray pattern, but, 5 psi won't start and run a v8. My opinion.
Could be other issues.

THERE IS A PICKUP COIL IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, IF YOU HAVEN'T CHECKED THAT, IT IS PROBABLY EASIER TO CHANGE THE DISTRIBUTOR THAN TRYING TO CHANGE JUST THE PICKUP COIL. MAKE SURE THE PICKUP COIL COMES IN THE NEW DISTRIBUTOR BEFORE YOU BUY. THE PICKUP COIL OFTEN CAUSES THE PROBLEM YOU ARE HAVING WITH YOUR CAR

What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.

35 is low fuel pressure, should be around 40-44 PSI and 46-50 PSI under a load, replace the fuel filter it may be clogged.