I have oil leaked into the radiator after it over boiled. The cooling fan came on only when the air cond was on but after awhile the fan stopped working altogether with or without the air con switched on. How and where do I check for whether the sensor or the regulator is broken? It's 2001 Volvo S60 2.4t. Can anyone help?
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Re: oil leaked into radiator after it over boiled
Strip and repair job here head off skim and rebuild ,then sort fan out new sensor and possibly a new fan ,is their two fans on this model or a two speed single one ,cant remember been a while since i done one.
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The radiator cap is rated for a reason. The higher the pressure the cap holds, the higher the boiling temperature is because the high pressure holds air in the coolant. By putting a lower rated cap on your lowered the boiling point of the coolant. Put the correct cap on and fix the leak. Why didn't you just fix the leak in the first place? You can use JB Weld to fix a pin-hole.
No. its either radiator , engine cooling fan, coolant leaks, thremostat, or worst headgasket. Acura are popular for radiator being broken at the seam of the radiator.So check for leaks, now if the cooling fan doesnt come on the yes it will overheat, so the operation has to be monitored a engine cannot go pass 215 F there it can be damage, now the thermostat need to open at a cerain degree . or it will cause overheating and not allow cool fluid to enter the engine area. and the radiator cap must be able to sustain a certain pressure in order to keep the car from overheat, water boils at 110 F so a radiator cap rated for your engine must be specification for every one pound of pressure it increase the boiling point 10 degrees. 210 is fuel control you should not exceed this temperature. radiator are popular for getting plugged internally.
Valve cover leak (oil) will not cause this problem, what needs to be checked is your radiator cooling fan, more then likely not working, that's why when your going down the freeway it don't over heat, you have air going through radiator, but when at stop, no air going through radiator to cool coolant before it goes back through engine, starts to get hot, and oil will also thin out, and have low oil pressure, check cooling fan's or fan, for voltage, should have voltage at normal oper. temp. about 210 - 220 deg., if you do have voltage and fan are not on, replace fan motor.
Do you know for sure if the radiator fan comes on? It should be coming on for the a/c, and it should come on BEFORE the engine temp gauge begins to climb.
Also, do you have obstructions in front of the grill? I would think that you said no blockage to the air intake, but also I could think if you have a winch. Is there any chance you have mud/debris in the radiator fins?
Bugs would be in the a/c condenser. Have you looked at the engine radiator behind the condenser? It's kind of hard to see. You may have to remove the plastic cover.
Make sure the fan goes from low to high speed; when the jeep starts
to get warmer the fan should go from the normal low speed up to high
(you usually will know it because it really is humming out there on
high). It may just be hot enough that low speed can't handle the heat load of the air-cond and the engine in traffic.
The air cond gets the air before the radiator so if the fan is coming on
low it will keep the condenser cool enough to have decent A/C
performance... the dealer should also be able to test low / hi radiator fan operation.
Install the engine mount struts. Notice: When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL (R) or HAVOLINE (R) DEX-COOL (R) coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOL (R) or HAVOLINE (R) DEX-COOL (R) is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner; at 50,000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.