1979 fiat spider 2000 multicolored vaccume ports rough idle
What exactley are these multicolored ports called they are red/yellow/green/etc. on the intake manifold (i beleive in a water flow area) with hoses leading to same color indicated ports on a weber adha carborator how do they function?do they open/close at specific temps where can i find replacements can i temporaroley by pass any of them to see if my rough idle improves
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Re: 1979 fiat spider 2000 multicolored vaccume ports...
Auto choke and heated inlet manifold but these are not colour coded from the factory and they serve a function.rough idleing on this type of classic vehicle is down to one thing unleaded fuel causing the valves to burn out,remove cylinder head and decoke and grind valves in ,then use a lead substitute with the petrol
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Make sure the rims are the correct bot pattern (4 X 98) and hubcentric. As for tire size, goin from a 13 to 14 inch rim is called plus one. The key is tio maintian the same tire diameter so the gear ratio and speedometer arenlt affected.
A stock 13 take a 195SR- 13 tire, wirth the 'SR' being a 75 series tire with a diameter of 24.52 inches. The closest match in 14 inch tires is 215x60-14 with a diamter of 24.16. As close as possible match.
Assuming that you have a fully charged battery then you should check/replace the ignition points and condenser. This should ideally have been checked before investing in a new coil.
If in any doubt then just replace them as it's cheap and easy. Note that most Fiat 124 Spiders are a little more complicated than normal cars as they're often fitted with two sets of points instead of the usual single set. One set is used purely for starting and the engine switches over to the other set once it's running at full oil pressure.
Assuming you have a 1600cc dual point 124 Spider then look at the following web address to see how to replace and adjust your points:- http://www.mirafiori.com/~thad/points.html
Note that although the points can be set roughly using a feeler gauge it's vital to adjust them correctly using a dwell meter.
The next web address gives you the specs for the US specification Fiat 124 Spider which usually had a single points distributor (points specs on page 21):- http://homepage.mac.com/tmckaskle/fiat/images/specs/index.html#page1
When doing this job also check and replace both the distributor cap and rotor arm if they show signs of damage, burning or excessive wear.
This is not a difficult job, but it is fiddly. I usually found it easiest to remove the distributor from the engine to work on it but that does mean that you need to mark the position of the rotor arm as the distributor is withdrawn to ensure that you don't completely lose the ignition timing when you've finished. You'll need to recheck and adjust the timing afterwards whether the distributor is removed or not anyway.
Finally, for lots of detailed help and assistance, I strongly suggest that you register on the Fiat Forum at the address below:-
Also check the vaccum hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold, it is right on top, to the front right of the valve cover where the fuel lines attach to the fuel rail, there is a small vaccum hose that runs from the regulator to the intake manifold, I have a 93 grand cherokee limited w/ 4.0L 6cyl, it was hard to start at times, wouldnt start at times without starting fluid spray and had your symptoms at idle, running rough like it wanted to stall like it was out of gas, I had various opinions ranging from fuel pump was bad to the fuel filter to the fuel presure regulator, the fuel pump relay ,etc....after replacing the relay and having the same symptoms, some digging brought me to this vaccum hose, wich had a break in it, when it was replaced it allowed the regulator to have the correct fuel pressure output and solved all the afforementioned problems way cheaper than the suggested alternitives. good luck.
tappets too tight
points too wide
strip and clean carb especialy the air passages
cracked distributor cap
spark plug breaking down
head gasket blowing between cylinders
air leak on inlet manifold/carb base
it could be any of the following:
time for a complete tune up ( plugs, wires, cap, rotor )
it could be thatyour ignition timing is out
you mayhave a clogged fuel filter
your injectors may be dirty
or you may have a vacuum leak
any of these could be the cause for your problem.