Question about 1992 Honda Prelude

5 Answers

Idle up and down car runs 20 min then dies car wont start 92 pre

This Bites,I replaced the component under the dash 100 bucks and then bought an idle control 255 bucks the car starts up and the idle goes up and down and up and down after about 20 minutes it dies and wont start for an hour or more its a 1992 Honda prelude 2.2

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  • Steven Scarborough
    Steven Scarborough Nov 13, 2008

    my 89 prelude is in the final stages of that. to which, i'm trying to find a vyable solution. i experienced the same situation as your prelude, but now my car will not run at all. I've replaced most of the electrical components(e.g., spark plugs and wiring, distributor cap and rotor, and the ignition coil), and she just sits there wanting to start up, but just won't.

  • anthonybuzzo Nov 21, 2008

    Well,there isnt an engine lite on and I thought to get an diagnose test it had to be on? I had all the easy stuff done. tune up,plugs. coils, wires,and some kind of fuel sending mod-under the dash.that was 100.00 bucks then I was told to change out the idle control mod 260.00 bucks . I just had the timeing belt,front coil springs,complete brakes front and back,new rad and was hopeing to through some paint on it but the S.O.B. only runs for 20-minutes then dies and has had a crazy idle since I owned it (2nd) owner so its just been sitting in front of my house...How many parts can control my idle???Cause Im to the point of just replaceing anything and everything just so I can drive my car.Or maybe ill just buy a fricken horse.

  • anthonybuzzo Nov 22, 2008

    Thanks

  • anthonybuzzo Nov 22, 2008

    The last time I took my honda prelude to a honda dealership,it was the worst exp ive ever had...I called Washington Honda and explained my problem was my exterior door handle broke off and how much would it cost me to replace it??There response was $170.00 well it was the middle of the winter,bodyshops were buzy (so I bit the bullet) and took it up to Washington Honda and in about a day it was ready,when they gave me the bill it was $255.00 I was livid,they said they had to charge me $85.00 to "acess the car" WHAT!!!!! It was a broken door handle A 5 year old could acess that.So after leaving my car there for a week and refusing to pay for it.I caved and paid.

  • anthonybuzzo Nov 23, 2008

    Hey (Emissionwiz) so you think I had an attitude problem???I have( only a car problem),that smug **** you just wrote rubbed me the wrong way,can you read emmisionwiz?? Im guessing you cant,cause about 99% of people would agree with me,that being ripped off by a dealer isnt cool.The other 1 % are smug like you and work for a dealership,makeing 14 bucks an hour and makeing your boss $14,000 a month.So next time you want to help with a mech-problem hows about giveing some real advice,instead of telling me to go buy an manual,emissionwiz your a dog-terd.....

  • anthonybuzzo Nov 23, 2008

    Yeah-OK-ummm-alright-but that info has nothing to-do with my car problem.Im a plumber,we could talk about that,If you have any plumbing issues feel free to contact me,Im sure I could reccomend a great manual for you.

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    If you are going to be working on your own car and have an attitude problem with the dealer buy a factory service manual, then you can diagnose the problem yourself, guessing on parts to fix this problem is throwing money away, $255 that's nothing once you start buying parts that don't fix the issue at hand, don't you agree????

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    No it (CEL) does not need to be on, take it to the Honda dealer they know what to do.

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    Way to little info, what tests have you run to diagnose this problem.

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Being a retired dealer tech I can say for sure I never ever ripped anyone off ever!!!!!!!! if they say (dealer) they needed access then you did not understand what they had to do and decided they where putting it to you, you go ahead and throw parts at the problem, you may or may not get lucky, I wish you the best of luck, and you Jacko rubbed me the wrong way.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 23, 2008

    I made $28+ bonuses + full benefits and retirement at 55, I retired from the job early because of customers that always thought someone was screwing them over, that was not true, like I said I did an honest days work for an days pay, never felt any guilt about any job I did, if it cam back I fixed it for free or we gave the customer his money back.

  • yadayada
    yadayada Nov 23, 2008

    Here is the most common cause of surges (idle speed goes up and down on it's own) and stalls, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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Okay...i dunno how it would work for your 92 'lude...but i replaced my ignition control module, and my car started up just shortly after installation. Try that. You'll probably save yourself a substantial amount of money. It's an easy 20 minute fix.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

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Its your cold start valve on the bottom of the throttle body, If you take the intake tube off and use your finger to cover the hole on the inside closees to the firewall, you will notice it will stop. You can take apart the valve and flip the cap in there around and it should solve the problem, or quickest way is to just plug it until you can get a new one or mod yours.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

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Relay,joints is crack,it expand and contract with the weather,just need 2 b re-solder.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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Okay as much as I dislike the fact that youre ripping on people trying to help you out--I'll consider it out of frustration with your car (still not justified, but I understand how some dealerships can be a pain in the ***) also, if it sounds like I'm explaining things you already know don't take it the wrong way I don't know what you do/don't know. I just had this issue with my girlfriend's car (at least the symptoms seem very close to yours): 1992 Prelude 2.3L Manual.

My situation: Her car would stall out and die while driving, and when shut off for a short amount of time on a warmer day (i.e. refueling at a gas station) and then not be able to start back up for about 15-20 mins...and eventually not at all! I guessed it had something to do with the ignition system (CEL would operate normally, main relay had just been replaced, the battery was new). Generally with these preludes the two main things that cause our sysmptoms are the main relays going bad due to deteriorating solder points and/or the ignition module (ignitor) going bad. The ignitors go bad (to my knowledge) when they get too hot/old, the temp of the module becomes too much for it to handle and the thing dies.

What to check: I dont know if you checked the main relay (possibly "the component under the dash 100 bucks"), when turning the ignition between the first and second positions (not cranking the engine) you should listen for the main relay under the dash to the left of the steering column clicking on and then off, you should also hear the fuel pump whirr on for a few seconds, as well as your dash lights going on etc. Sounds basic but make sure your battery is good.

Secondly pull the ignitor and get it tested at your local parts store (most do it for free). To do that:

1) unscrew the 3 distributor cap screws
2)if facing the distributor from the passenger side of the engine compartment you should see 2 small screws between the 10 and 12 o'clock postions, and 4 wires, right along the inside edge of the distributor. These screws hold the ignitor in place. Unfasten the 4 wires (remember theirplacement) and unscrew the 2 screws. You should be able to slide the ignitor and its metal harness.
3) take it in and get it tested...hopefully thats the fix
4) when installing the new one (or reinstalling the old if its good) make sure to spread a thin layer of heat sink (you can find it at any parts store or computer place) between the ignitor and the metal harness. It will help prevent too much heat transfer.

Hope that helps, let me know how it all ends up.
Ed




Posted on Nov 25, 2008

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