Question about 1992 Honda Prelude
This Bites,I replaced the component under the dash 100 bucks and then bought an idle control 255 bucks the car starts up and the idle goes up and down and up and down after about 20 minutes it dies and wont start for an hour or more its a 1992 Honda prelude 2.2
Being a retired dealer tech I can say for sure I never ever ripped anyone off ever!!!!!!!! if they say (dealer) they needed access then you did not understand what they had to do and decided they where putting it to you, you go ahead and throw parts at the problem, you may or may not get lucky, I wish you the best of luck, and you Jacko rubbed me the wrong way.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
Okay...i dunno how it would work for your 92 'lude...but i replaced my ignition control module, and my car started up just shortly after installation. Try that. You'll probably save yourself a substantial amount of money. It's an easy 20 minute fix.
Posted on Nov 21, 2008
Its your cold start valve on the bottom of the throttle body, If you take the intake tube off and use your finger to cover the hole on the inside closees to the firewall, you will notice it will stop. You can take apart the valve and flip the cap in there around and it should solve the problem, or quickest way is to just plug it until you can get a new one or mod yours.
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
Relay,joints is crack,it expand and contract with the weather,just need 2 b re-solder.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
Okay as much as I dislike the fact that youre ripping on people trying to help you out--I'll consider it out of frustration with your car (still not justified, but I understand how some dealerships can be a pain in the ***) also, if it sounds like I'm explaining things you already know don't take it the wrong way I don't know what you do/don't know. I just had this issue with my girlfriend's car (at least the symptoms seem very close to yours): 1992 Prelude 2.3L Manual.
My situation: Her car would stall out and die while driving, and when shut off for a short amount of time on a warmer day (i.e. refueling at a gas station) and then not be able to start back up for about 15-20 mins...and eventually not at all! I guessed it had something to do with the ignition system (CEL would operate normally, main relay had just been replaced, the battery was new). Generally with these preludes the two main things that cause our sysmptoms are the main relays going bad due to deteriorating solder points and/or the ignition module (ignitor) going bad. The ignitors go bad (to my knowledge) when they get too hot/old, the temp of the module becomes too much for it to handle and the thing dies.
What to check: I dont know if you checked the main relay (possibly "the component under the dash 100 bucks"), when turning the ignition between the first and second positions (not cranking the engine) you should listen for the main relay under the dash to the left of the steering column clicking on and then off, you should also hear the fuel pump whirr on for a few seconds, as well as your dash lights going on etc. Sounds basic but make sure your battery is good.
Secondly pull the ignitor and get it tested at your local parts store (most do it for free). To do that:
1) unscrew the 3 distributor cap screws
2)if facing the distributor from the passenger side of the engine compartment you should see 2 small screws between the 10 and 12 o'clock postions, and 4 wires, right along the inside edge of the distributor. These screws hold the ignitor in place. Unfasten the 4 wires (remember theirplacement) and unscrew the 2 screws. You should be able to slide the ignitor and its metal harness.
3) take it in and get it tested...hopefully thats the fix
4) when installing the new one (or reinstalling the old if its good) make sure to spread a thin layer of heat sink (you can find it at any parts store or computer place) between the ignitor and the metal harness. It will help prevent too much heat transfer.
Hope that helps, let me know how it all ends up.
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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