Disconnect your battery to clear the fault codes, Start and run your vehicle again to see what pops up. For one, you are reading the MIL code and you should get a simple fault code reader for under $20. Use the emission control section of the Haynes manual to pinpoint the fault code. MIL codes are too generic to be of much worth. (Typically, what I do: 1) clean out the throttle body... you have to remove it and the two sensors on it... replace the idle control sensor if it's carbonated (can clean it up well enough), 2) the torque converter solenoids on these things are ticklish... replace it... easy job and have posted elsewhere on how to do it properly, new one costs $70 at NAPA,) Service the AT: gasket and filter. new fluid AF+4 only (Castrol for Chrysler is best). Unplug the ECU and TCM sensors after disconnecting the battery and spray electronics contact cleaner inside both ends: terminal and connector sides and let them air dry before replacing them and reconnecting the battery. Replace the EATX relay. Your fault is now gone and you gas mileage should go up a bit too! A new set of Iridium plugs will go far is adding a little power and improve gas mileage too. It's a project to get to the rear spark plugs; Nbr 1 especially. Removing the wiper arms, grill under the windscreen, wiper mechanism and the tray is sits above, and then you can get to the backside plugs. Use the 100K mile iridiums and nver have to worry about plugs again!
SOURCE: Peugeot 206 1999 losing power
its a peugeot, the french are known for many things autos arnt one of them
SOURCE: power loss
Can't answer your last question but catalytic convertors that are just not working anymore won't cause any loss of power.
However, if they have shattered inside (they are kind of a ceramic honeycomb) they can dump junk into the exhaust system that can eventually clog your muffler or resonator.
Checking whether this has happened isn't difficult; after the warm up of the engine, either you or a helper needs to listen to the exhaust note.
If firing of the cylinders is still distinct, the system isn't clogged with shrapnel; if it seems to hiss at higher RPMs, it is likely clogged.
This effect is easy to miss; I've had two failures and when cold, the engine would pull fine because the chunks of ceramic would fall to the bottom of the muffler and glue together somewhat.
Once hot and agitated, they would clog the muffler and cause a severe loss of power but the idle would be OK.
A hill that I would normally pull at 70 MPH, I couldn't top at all; had to sit and wait for things to cool down before proceeding.
It also seems some engines appreciate a bit of back-pressure in the exhaust system because the car gained in mileage and pulling power for several thousand miles before the clog became critical causing the mileage to fall sharply along with the power.
SOURCE: 2001 Elantra stall, loss of power. Driving at
I am having the exact same problem with my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. I was told that the engine code that comes up when the sensor is on is called "Absolute Pressure In The Manifold". I was told by a "Hyundai Specialist" that when that code comes up it usually means that the seal on the manifold is Fuct. When my mechanic checked that out for me he had noticed that my manifold had 4 cracks in it(can varify cause he showed me). He replaced the manifold and gasket. The car ran fine for about 2-3 days and since then the problem has since come back and my check engine light will no longer go on/off it only stays on. Because of the check engine light always staying on I have noticed that on many occasions my car will hiccup many times in a row. The only way to stop the hiccup I have noticed is to take my foot right of the gas for approx. 2-3 sec then car will continue without hiccup(till it happends all over again). All in all I have been having this problem now for approx. 1 year and if there is somehow someway it could be repaired I would appretiate it.
SOURCE: 1997 Mustang Cobra (4V, 4.6L), rough idling, won't stay running
silly question, however did you check the air box for nests. it is not uncommon for rodents to climb in and make themselves at home. i would also say to get a maf from ford. check ALL around the engine compartment and underneath for evidence of rodents and their leavings. youll be very suprised what you may find.cheers
SOURCE: 1994 Chevrolet 2500 Trouble codes. I
DTC 12 -
When terminals "A" and "B" have been connected, the ignition switch
turned to the "ON" position with the engine not operating, the MIL
(Service Engine Soon) should flash DTC 12 three times consequently. This
will be the following flash sequence: "flash, pause, flash-flash,
pause, flash, pause, flash-flash, pause, flash, pause, flash-flash." DTC
12 indicates that the control module diagnostic system is operating
properly. If DTC 12 is not indicated, and a fault is present within the
diagnostic system itself, it should be addresses by consulting the
appropriate diagnostic chart in this section.
The MIL (SES) will indicate a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) three times
if a DTC is present, or it will simply continue to output DTC 12. If
more than one DTC has been stored in the control module memory, the
DTC(s) will be displayed from the lowest to the highest with each DTC
being displayed three times.
DTC 32 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Error
EGR open command did not change the fuel mixture when the command
was given during off idle operation. EGR opening should cause
the mixture
to be slightly richer because of the low oxygen content of the
exhaust
gas. EGR position signal is also monitored to verify EGR
movement.
The EGR relies on a certain amount of
exhaust back pressure to work properly. Now that you have lowered the
back pressure, it can't work. Have you tried a new EGR valve? You may
need a service manual with an EGR diagnostic chart to make sure, but I
think the duals are the problem. Plus the O2 sensor is only looking at
one side of engine instead of both.
Keep in midn this procedure to Clearing Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
To clear the DTC's from memory of the control module, either to
determine if the malfunction will occur again or because the repair has
been completed, the Tech 1 Scan Tool should be used to clear the DTC's.
If a Tech 1 Scan Tool is not available the following must be perform'd
when all repairs have been completed. This will allow all DTC's to be
cleared:
1. Ignition "OFF."
2. Ground diagnostic terminal "A" to "B" of DLC (Data Link Connector).
3. Ignition "ON."
4. Fully apply brake pedal.
5.Fully apply accelerator pedal.
6. Check MIL (Service Engine Soon) for DTC 12.
7. Release brake pedal.
8. Release accelerator pedal.
9. Check MIL (Service Engine Soon) for DTC 12.
10. Turn ignition
"OFF."
11. Remove Jumper from DLC connector.
NOTICE: To prevent control module damage, the key must be "OFF" when
disconnecting or reconnecting module power.
Good luck.
100 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×