Question about 1989 Ford F 150
Harley, we would appreciate any solution you have to the issue you posted Sept 11 2008 on the Ford Ignition Switch...We took your advice on the first part, which revealed it was the ignition switch issue addressed in your followup post. Thanks you!
Comment by 54harley, posted on Nov 13, 2008
First of all before anything else, disconnect the ground battery cable. Remove column shroud by loosening the screw on the underside, selecting position "1" for automatics and manual 3 speeds, then spreading shroud open and withdrawing out of instrument panel opening by pulling up and away from the column.
If the ignition switch is out of adjustment, that will keep it from working properly. It operates by a rod through the lock actuator rack and pinion which is driven by the key cylinder. To readjust the switch, first disconnect the ignition switch connector by carefully spreading apart the locking fingers and pulling the plug apart. Now rotate the key back and forth until you can insert a 5/64 drill bit, or something equivalent, through the locking pin hole as far as possible. The locking pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube. Next loosen the two ignition switch mounting nuts, turn the ignition to LOCK (feel for detent), and remove the key. Now move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-point of the rod lash and then re-tighten the mounting nuts, making sure to tighten top nut first to minimize any rod binding. Now remove the drill bit and reconnect the electrical connector.
If you need to replace the switch, first remove the column support bracket and lower the column. Disconnect the plug, remove the two nuts, lift the switch up vertically to disengage the actuator rod from the switch, and remove.
When you install the new switch, both the lock cylinder and the ignition switch must be in the LOCK position for correct adjustment. Turn the lock cylinder to LOCK and remove the key. The new switch will already be pinned in the Lock position with a metal shipping pin. Now install the new switch by first engaging the actuator rod to the switch, and then positioning the switch on the column and installing the nuts, but only finger tight! Move the switch up and down along the column, and when you locate the mid-point of rod lash, tighten the nuts, top nut first. Remove the lock pin, reconnect the battery ground cable, and check to see that it starts properly in Park and Neutral, and will not start in Drive or Reverse. Raise the steering column back up into position, and put bracket back on. Reinstall the shroud by spreading it around the column and through the instrument panel opening, making sure that the pin on the shroud is aligned with the upper hole on the column before installing the shroud screw.
I hope this works for you. Although I've done this before, these instructions are from the Ford Truck Shop Manual, and a Haynes Repair Manual. Good Luck!!!
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
I had this problem on my '89 F150, which occurred while the truck was running. The tumbler was locked in the on position, so I shot some dry graphite in there, which freed it up temporarily. After having later examined a new part, (which I did not buy or use) I noted that it was lubed with a heavy grease, so the graphite should probably be forgone in favor of an oil based lubricant. After functioning a few more times, it then seized in the off position. First, I got most of that excess powder out with some compressed air and replaced it with a spray lube. I then inserted a small slotted screwdriver of the type used for eyeglasses into the corresponding access hole just beneath the tumbler assembly. This freed it up noticeably, and it has continued to function with no resistance for quite a few starts now, though the entire assembly seems a bit loose. This would be seemingly unrelated to the linkage problem in the steering column generally associated with this seizure of the tumbler. It may or may not continue to work this way, but thus far, this solution has saved me some time and spared me the inconvenience of being stranded to do this job where it sits or be forced to tow the vehicle.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
I have a 1989 F800/429 no spark. Wires to coil are good. Replaced the coil, cap, and rotor.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
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