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Re: car will not drive, is it clutch or cabel
Most likly clutch plate worn out or presure plate. could also be input shaft gear to cluster gear failure. Try engaging 4th gear and see if vehicle moves. If it dosn't then its clutch plate. If it does then you have gearbox problems
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that is normal if the gear synchro dogs ( teeth) are in line in the box
problems concerning a clutch are
slashing gears when trying to engage first or reverse with the pedal to the floor ---needs bleeding
slipping when the clutch pedal is released--- slipping clutch from the pressure not being released ---problem in master cylinder
reverse gear is the only gear not synchronised so even with the clutch depressed it is possible sometimes that it will not go into gear unless you let the clutch up to move the gears in the box then attempt to re-engage reverse
The clutch is not transferring power to the gearbox, which then is not turning, so that you can select gears without the clutch.Possibilities are
- clutch assembly has failed, possibly by the splined driven plate hub coming adrift
- clutch driven plate has become very worn and has lost contact
- slave cylinder has stuck through corrosion (assuming a hydraulic clutch) and is holding out the clutch independent of the pedal. This can be determined by watching it while someone depresses and raises the pedal.
I think it is unlikely the transmission input shaft has fractured.
That smell is your clutch material burning up from the engine reving and the clutch being partially engaged. When a clutch gets that hot a few things happen, the clutch disk material wears down giving less grab and the pressure plate overheats causing warpage, erratic engagement, slippage and weakening of the metal spring or flanges that apply pressure to the clutch pack. The clutch might be damaged, your (or the previous owners) driving habits may be wearing it at an accelerated rate or there could be a master/slave cylender issue.
It jump because the clutch disc itself is good, but the clutch is not engaging-the pedal is not making the clutch engage. When it does, then you can shift without grinding, then you can shift period. Clutch pedal operates a cable or it operates a hydraulic system-they both, which ever one you have, move the clutch fork on the transmission bell housing just a bit to cause the clutch to disengage the transmission from the engine's flywheel...so you can shift, see, easy, smooth shifts, no problem, no grinding. Your clutch itself is okay, the pedal is just not operating it.
1 Park your car with its front tyres touching the curb. Engage 1st and start slowly releasing the clutch pedal without applying any throttle. The engine should gradually fade out and bog down when the pedal is completely released. If the engine just bogs down at some point, or the fading is not gradual, the clutch is damaged. If the gearbox grinds when you try to shift in first from a standstill, there's a damage in the clutch too.
2 Try to pull off in 3rd gear with the front wheels at the curb, and without applying throttle. If the engine doesn't die, it shows a complete clutch failure. In that case, do not drive this vehicle.
3 Find a smooth, straight road to test the vehicle. Start from first, and slowly accelerate from second. As you do this use late-shifting, i.e. slightly over-rev the engine (approx. 500-1000 RPM faster than the revs you'd normally shift at). Up-shift to second without using double-clutching. Repeat the same procedure when shifting into 3rd. Now, with your car running at approximately 50 km/h (25 mph) try down-shifting to second without double-clutching. Both the up-shifting and the down-shifting must be done without grinding. Grinding of the gears indicates a gearbox malfunction, most likely in the sync gears ("synchronizers"). To make sure it's the synchronizers, try up-shifting and down-shifting with double-clutching. If the grinding stops, then it's the synchronization.
2 Shift into drive and hold the break pedal after making sure your brakes work. Press the gas pedal all the way down. The engine should not fade. If it does, it means the transmission (particularly the clutch) does not disengage completely.
3 Check for smooth shifting. On an even and relatively horizontal road you should be able to accelerate without any tangible jolts. If there are such, the gearbox has malfunctioned.
4 Check for vibrations. Driving at about 70 km/h (35 mph) switch to Neutral (both auto and manual). There shouldn't be any lateral vibrations. If there are, this is either due to a warping of the drive-shaft, or a suspension damage. Basically, drive-shaft warping is perceived as a vibration in both vertical and horizontal direction, whereas a suspension damage is felt as a vibration in only one direction (i.e. either horizontally or vertically).
5 Test steering. When trying to enter a corner with approximately 30 km/h (15 mph) there shouldn't be any tangible under-steer. The presence of such may be due to a differential failure, especially in FWD cars. Novice drivers must never try and test their differentials by trying to induce under/over-steer!
Incomplete disengaging is due to the trailing disc sticking to the leading one, e.g. because of mechanical soiling of the friction surfaces or worn out springs.
Incomplete disengaging in automatic transmissions is felt as a forward jolt when the gearbox changes gears, whereas incomplete engaging is felt as over-revving the engine without any significant change in speed, especially when stepping on the throttle at high speeds (over 50 km/h or 30 mph).
Automatic transmissions have the so-called "hydraulic clutch". It's basically a combination of a hydraulic pump, driven by the engine, and a hydraulic motor, linked to the rest of the drive-train. This allows for the hydraulic liquid to flow through the motor, even if its load is too big for the engine to rotate it. This eases operation, but results in poorer acceleration, greater fuel consumption and severely decreased ability of the driver to use engine braking, which can be very dangerous on long downward slopes. Hydraulic clutches are easier to operate in urban driving, but become a drawback on long roads
Gearboxes come in three types: manual, semi-automatic, and automatic
Malfunctions in a hydraulic clutch include incomplete disengaging (due to old hydraulic fluid, which has become thicker than specified by the manufacturer), or incomplete engaging (most often due to a leak of hydraulic fluid or presence of an air pocket within the hydraulic circuit. These are both dealt with by replacing the hydraulic fluid, bleeding (if necessary) of the hydraulic system, and removing any possible leaks.
The most common malfunction of a dispatch box is the inability to change its function (e.g. switch between 4x2 and 4x4) If this happens, refer to a repair shop.
The clutch is designed to smoothly disconnect the engine from the rest of the drive-train.
The clutch disengaging too low or too high is an indication of a worn out trailing disc.
There are implements that allow an automatic gearbox to operate in semi-automatic mode, allowing the driver to manually shift gear up or gear down, but w/o using a clutch. These operate exclusively by aids of electronics. This is common in high-class German cars like the S-Klasse Mercedes. Usually the corresponding position of the lever is marked with T or M and the driver selects a gear down by moving the lever to the left, and a gear up by nudging it do the right.
Semi-automatic gearboxes are combined with a hydraulic clutch. They allow the driver to select a gear up or a gear down. These are most often seen in rally cars, where there are two levers on both sides of the steering wheel. Usually the right one switches a gear up, and the left one switches a gear down.
Well, there is only one thing I can think of in your situation. Your pressure plates just simply are not creating enough pressure to allow the gears to engage. Either you have a defective clutch and it needs to be replaced, or possibly just needs a ton of adjustment. When you put it in 1st gear while engine is off, then start it and take off that works b/c there is enough pressure to keep the gears from starting to move when not already moving. However when they are already moving, there is just not enough pressure to stop them from turning, not even long enough to shift. Have you tried forcing it into 2,3, or 4 while driving without the clutch? As long as you achieve the correct RPM's your transmission should be able to do so.
do you mean wont disengage? does the pedal feel normal, or like its pushing nothing?cant put it in gear? or goes in gear but wont move?. if you put it in gear but car wont move, the clutch is toasted. if you can put it in gear with the engine off, but not when its running, check the clutch master fluid. if its low or out, then the slave or master is leaking and you will need to replace both. if the clutch arm IS working, and the pedal feels normal, sometimes you can put in gear, and start it with the clutch pedal depressed and drive it, and goose the gas to "break the disc loose"
the acuating cylinder for the clutch needs to be replaced. this explains why you ahve no resistance when you deprress the clutch peddle. when adjusted right you should have no more than 1-1 1/2 inches of free play in the clutch peddle. and since the car will be in gear with out the clutch being pressed tells me that the clutch itself is good. please rate this